Hysol info

[C5Engineer 1170]

I think one of the things that draws me to working on airplanes is the endless amount of learning that takes place. As most of you know I didn't actually build my airplane, it was more of a restoration so I missed out on a lot of the things that one would learn while building. One of those things is the use of Hysol. Don't laugh...okay go ahead you can make fun of me or call me the over analyzer/rocket scientist like Leni does.... I realize that to most of you this is a really simple topic.

 

So Hysol......it's a two part epoxy that bonds stuff together and it's really strong. It's glue that's all you need to know right? Well while trying to school myself on it today I realized that there is a lot more to it than that. The following info is from the Loctite brand. I have no need to spend $80 on a big can of the actual Hysol brand for the small projects I'm looking to do.

 

Go ahead and Google Loctite Hysol and see what comes up. The first thing I noticed was how many different kinds there was. E-90HP, E-120HP, E-90FL, E-20, 9460, 3981, 9430, the list goes on and on. What's the difference between them? What are the application differences? What about quanities you can buy it in? These are just a few of the questions I had.  After some searching I finally found some comparison charts to try and figure out what it was I needed. I'm still not 100% sure but at least I narrowed it down some. I thought I would post the charts to maybe save someone else the hassle.

 

If you have some good Hysol info like what type for specific applications please post here. If you want the small self mixing squirt type tubes like regular old epoxy comes in from the hardware store it looks like 9460 is a good general use product. I think I am going to go with E-20HP to glue my wood fairings onto the back of my gear legs since it's non structural and it won't require much work life and looks easier to mix. According to the handy dandy chart I attached either will work when bonding wood to steel.

 

Also are the tech data sheets for 9460 and E-20HP

E-20HP.pdf

Hysa9460-EN.pdf

[C5Engineer 1170]

Some other threads that have discussed Hysol in the past on here

 

http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/1012-handling-the-9460-hysol/?hl=hysol Handling

http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/270-hysol-9460-epoxy-shelf-life/?hl=hysol Shelf Life

http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/1338-hysol-9460-source/?hl=hysol Sources

[SuberAvid 617]

Excellent info Joey, Thanks.

[dholly 718]

Another tip that might not have been mentioned in the prior links... The black Part A of the 2-part epoxy never hardens with age but the white part does. If you find yourself with outdated Hysol, don't toss it! Just use it for the non-structural applications in your build, or for your other around the house projects. Even when the white Part B starts to harden in the can, you can chip out a chunk and heat it up (I just use the microwave on High for a few seconds!). If you mix this re-softened hardener with the black Part A, trust me, it still sticks to everything including your hands and clothes like crazy! I'm sure there is reduced efficacy but I can't tell the difference in my not-so-scientific long- term bench tests. Still holding the bumper cover on my son's Jeep, and its been whacked good more than once since the initial repair.

[Tree top pilot 13]

One thing I have learned is that mistakes/ accidents happen. If you need to un-bond a junction using Hysol 9460.... here is what I have found. The glass transition temperature of 9460 is near 160 deg. F......so with careful monitoring of temps....you should be able to un-bond a glue joint on most parts. Seeing as T-6061 has a problem with losing some temper near or above 320 deg. F for more than a few minutes.....one should be able to take a wing apart with no problems. Reason being is that I am helping with a spar replacement on a Kitfox . Jason was worried about the drag tubes getting heat through the attach bracket....and then the metallurgical books and Alcoa documents reading began. Man what a job. Just thought I would pass along the info we have gathered in a nutshell.

Edited 3 May 2014 by Tree top pilot

[EDMO 1078]

I think the drag tubes in the later models were steel instead of aluminum - might be an option if he has worries.  A cold wet rag wrapped around the tube while you heat the joint should be enough.

EDMO

[IFMT 36]

I used the concentrated heat of a plastic welder to soften the glue. Works not bad. Very much like a small concentrated heat gun.

[dholly 718]

Drag tubes were aluminum for A, B, C, D, Bandit and Avid+. Steel for Magnum and Airdale Flyer.

[Goldendale-flyer 6]

Can you point me to the technical data on the wing spars?

[EDMO 1078]

I have been paying $100 a kit for 9460 from Kitfox.

The spars are 2.5" x .065 wall 6061T6 for Kitfox and early Avids, and .083 wall for Airdale, Magnum, etc.

EDMO

[akflyer 1427]

The Heavy Hauler Avid's used .083" spars as well.

[dholly 718]

^ so did Avid Aerobat.

[dholly 718]

Can you point me to the technical data on the wing spars?

What info are you looking for specifically? Search for the "Different Wings" thread in the Avid Mk-4 forum, details the construction and material characteristics of each Avid wing design.

[akflyer 1427]

http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/640-different-wings/

 

Here is a link to the wings thread.. LOTS of good info provided by our resident historian / professor Dr. Holly..... 

 

[EDMO 1078]

If you find .083 spar material, I think lots of people on here would like to know where.

EDMO

[Bandit 286]

My Bandit is .083.

[EDMO 1078]

That's a big surprise Bandit - and with only 480 EW - Wow! EDMO

[EDMO 1078]

Another surprise - Referring to the Axle Grease threads: I got my Grove nosewheel yesterday - the bearings had RED GREASE in them!  Ha!

EdMO

Edited 15 Aug 2014 by Ed In Missouri