Soob ignition maintenance

[IFMT 36]

I thought I better start a new thread Ed. What specifically would be considered proper ignition maintenance on the soob ea81 with the nippon denso electronic distributer? Buy new every ? many hours. They are about $500 if I remember right. I bought all the stuff to do the dual LS 1 coil conversion with a dual pickup distributer but just haven't got around to it. Going to change my belt right away as well as it has been a few years. B

[EDMO 1078]

     I don't know what dual point / pickup conversion you have, but there have been problems with some of them.  I have the plans for the conversion, but don't plan to use it. 

      I think that SuberAvid may have had some bad experience with that.  The dual coils are OK, and I think he runs them.  But, I have been around cars since the 1940s, and have never known of a coil failure.

      There are no "hours/time" on the distributer parts, just routine inspections and setting/replacing points/rotary button as needed.

     I saw EA-81 Soobs in Alaska with 3-400K miles on them, without an overhaul, and still going, although the old bodies were badly rusted out.

Some of the early computers had to be replaced, but with good general maintenance, these engines last a long time.

EDMO

Edited 27 Apr 2014 by Ed In Missouri

[IFMT 36]

The distributer I have is hal effect (no points) nippon denso. Single coil. I've got top line 8mm plug wires. Never misses a beat. I guess there are not many soob guys on this sight.

Edited 29 Apr 2014 by IFMT

[EDMO 1078]

Only about 6 Soob flyers are active writers - No telling how many of the 800 plus members fly Soobs, but guessing the Rotax drivers outnumber us about 40 to 1.

I will ask again:  Are you the one with Multi-Point Fuel Injection?   I know there is at least ONE out there, and wish I had one, and would like to know if it uses a computer or how the injection works.   I wonder if a carb engine could be converted to MPFI?

EdMO

[IFMT 36]

I don't have anything fancy. Just a 2 barrel off of a 318 dodge. Works well though. My engine is set up very professionally by the guy who finished the plane. It has a carb heat system although I have never noticed any carb ice. Still has the stock heated intake manual. If you use a carb adapter plate make sure the bolts inside the adapter are not to long. I discovered mine were just a touch long when it developed a tiny coolant leak between the adapter and intake. I have thought about converting to a 582 but a total conversion would be $$$ and I'm not sure about the overall performance gains. 65hp versus the 80ish I have now. I'm not 100% sure about the cam I am running but I think it is stock. Emailed the guy who built it but he hasn't got back to me. With the 1.84 reduction it pulls about 4300 static with 8.25 degrees of pitch. To busy to rip everything apart so she has to stay the way it is for now.

[EDMO 1078]

Your engine sounds just like mine.   Was the builder Dave Johnson?  He died a couple of years ago.

September 2011, I think.  I believe he lived in Manitoba?  I have several pages of info he sent about my engine.

What prop are you using?

EDMO

Edited 29 Apr 2014 by Ed In Missouri

[IFMT 36]

I do have the Dave Johnson redrive. He didn't personally build this engine as I know the fellow who had the plane 0 timed it with the help of a local "professional". Pretty sure though that Mr. Johnson certainly masterminded much of what was done. I'll take some pics when I get near the plane and post for your perusal. I am currently using a 3 blade warp drive cut back to 68 inches from 70. Warp drive told me to set the prop to 8.5 degrees. I have yet to try this. I am slowly getting it together to build the 100 horse version but you know how it is. Time is precious. Sounds like you're not a fan of the "home made" diy dual ignition. I was going to follow the plans posted by Paul messenger(hope I got that right) about ea81 dual pickup distributer conversion. I was able to buy a dizzy already set up from a ch601.

[EDMO 1078]

I think that SuberAvid may have had some bad experience with that dual setup - or someone I have talked to.

My Soob had 75 hours on it when I bought it.   The owner said he set his 72" warp drive at about 11 degrees, and to try for 4200 static, or 4400 on floats - he said it should unload at 4800, and not to exceed 5000 if I wanted it to last.

  I don't know if mine was modified, except that the heads were milled .040, raising compression to 9.1.

  He had it on a Pelican with floats, and it was too heavy, so he bought a used 912.

I didn't get the prop, and am still building my plane.

I have some papers on the points setting ( yours is a reluctor) and I think the dwell and advance settings.  

Also got the assembly instructions for the redrive and where to buy belts.

If you need any info, I will look for it.

EDMO

I also have a VHS video of Dave Johnson with a couple of engines he built.

Are you modifying your Soob?  How?

If I ever tear mine down, I will send the cam and lifters to Stratus or someone, if it has not been reground.

Edited 30 Apr 2014 by Ed In Missouri

[IFMT 36]

I am having trouble posting any pictures. Will try to figure it out later. Any ideas. I'm using a mac with the latest updates. 

[EDMO 1078]

If you need help posting photos, then someone, Joey, Leni, or others might help.

I don't even know if we have a Dell or HP computer - barely know how to turn it on!

EDMO

[akflyer 1427]

hit the "more reply options" button when making the post and it should pop up with an "add attachment" button.  you can then click that then select the picture you want to upload to the site.

 

Let me know if it still does not work for you.

 

[EDMO 1078]

Here is NOT a photo of a Dave Johnson redrive conversion EA-81, like mine.

Well, screwed this one up - see the next post. 

EDMO

Why cant I delete my own post?

Edited 30 Apr 2014 by Ed In Missouri

[EDMO 1078]

Here is a photo of a Dave Johnson redrive conversion EA-81, like mine.

I don't like the black paint, and will change that to something light colored before installing it.  Better to see leaks and other stuff when inside the cowl.  

Note:   My engine mount is different - it attaches to engine and to redrive.

EDMO

WTF - I deleted the last post and it shows up - put photo here and it is gone!  Guess I am doing good to even get on here?  And, now the photo is back??

Edited 30 Apr 2014 by Ed In Missouri

[SuberAvid 617]

I have a RAM dual ignition on mine.  The first one I got from them did not want to run on one of the ignitions so I sent it back and the second one has worked flawlessly with no issues.  I never can remember if it is the Nippon denso or the Hitachi ditributor though.  (I have to sketch the distributor cap so I can make sure I get the correct parts).  It has dual ignition pickups in the distributor and goes to dual coils then to a coil joiner.  I only run one ignition at a time since prolonged running of both ignitions will overheat the coil joiner; but it gives you a backup ignition to switch to if the primary fails.  The Stratus secondary ignition runs from a second trigger on the crank and uses the dual coils and coil joiner so still operated one at a time.  Both are run through the distributor so single system from the distributor to the plugs.

 

Stratus recommends changing the distributor cap and rotor every 300 hours, the plugs every 200 hours and the plug wires every 1500 hours.  I am sure it is very much on the conservative side since I just changed my cap and rotor with about 320 hours on it and looked almost new.  Jack just helped me pull the redrive apart last weekend and repack the drive bearings, everything was in great shape; smooth and tight.  The belt is recommended to be changed at 300 hours but it still looks nearly new with no visible wear.  I decided I will go a little longer with it and just keep inspecting it closely.

 

Mine turns 4800 rpm on takeoff with the stratus redrive 2.2:1 with a 72" IVO prop at flat pitch if that info is of any use.

[IFMT 36]

I'm still trying to figure out why I can't post a pic. Computer settings?

[akflyer 1427]

how large is the picture file your trying to post?  what is the error you get when trying to post pictures.  Some internet providers will time you out if its taking too long to upload a picture or file.  If your on DSL this shouldn't happen, but when I used to be on dial up at work it would do it too me all the time. 

 

[EDMO 1078]

I was told that the belts should be changed every 500 hours, or as needed.

Thanks for posting the good info Randy.

EDMO

Edited 1 May 2014 by Ed In Missouri

[IFMT 36]

Okay, I have figured out a way to up load. Email the photo to myself, then import a scaled version back into my photos and then it will upload. Weird!

[IFMT 36]

Here are the rest of the redrive pics Ed. I hope you enjoy because that was one painful pain in the ass!

Edited 2 May 2014 by IFMT

[EDMO 1078]

Luke,

     I enjoyed the photos - I see that you have the (better?) type of redrive with the bearing on the front plate - mine has none there.    What kind of exhaust / muffler do you have?

Looks like HUGE rad hoses!  and you did the rad flat sort of like Kitfox.  What kind of rad?

     Are you the guy who recently outbid me on the WD prop with the large spinner? - That spinner may be a PITA for you for adjusting blades and keeping bolts tight.   The small skullcap spinner lets you get right to the clamp bolts.

     You are much farther along than I am - I just got back from the steel supply with material for my new struts - more $$$ gone!

Get it together and go flying!

Thanks,

EDMO

Edited 2 May 2014 by Ed In Missouri

[IFMT 36]

I haven't bid on any aircraft stuff...not that I remember anyway. I bought the spinner from UHS in ontario. Around $200 for the kit if I remember. The plane came with the warp prop but I had to replace the blades after a bungee got cut by the safety cable. The rad is directly out of a VW rabbit. Cools it fine, even on long full power climbcout on hot day. I scavenge heat up through an inspection type hole in the floor. Not that great when it's real cold though. The thermostat doesn't let enough heat back. Thinking about redirecting the muff for the carb heat through a switchable door. The muffler is a custom built "swiss" made of stainless steel. Just google "swiss muffler" and you will get some views. I'm Bernard. But I'm not french so it's pronounced Bernerd. Cheers. B

[EDMO 1078]

I have seen drawings of what was supposed to be a "Swiss" muffler - Looked to be about 5 feet long - and yours didn't look like that.

Thanks Bernard,

EDMO

[IFMT 36]

I'll measure it up and get some close pictures for you.

[akflyer 1427]

One of the guys on BCP has a "swiss" muffler on his Rans S7 with a 912... but everyone there has renamed it to the "Sneaky Bastard Muffler System" cause they say ya cant hear him coming till he is RIGHT on top of you.

 

[IFMT 36]

Here are some pics of my muffler. It's only about 2 feet long. Didn't have a tape. I guess it's a mini swiss muffler. Not real quiet but it does sound good!