Vertical Stab Tubing Model III KF

[LSaupe 123]

I am making a mod to my vertical stab to accomodate a taller rudder.  I see the o.d. is 9/16. Anyone know the thickness?

 

Larry S.

[sioux201 84]

I've do that mod, call me

Snaps

252 923 5145

[EDMO 1078]

Best advise I can give you, is to cut the top of the vertical post and measure the wall thickness - you need to insert a tube inside of it to make a strong splice anyway - I am guessing you have an early model something -  The Kitfox 4 stab is about 52 or 54", or so, in height -

I made mine about 4 inches less than that, and made the rudder extension taller so it overlapped the top of the stab to make a balanced rudder - I rounded my rudder at all outside points so not to have sharp corners which makes covering a little easier, IMO. - It could be done either way.  If you have the early hinges, don't forget to put a spacer (1/16"?) between the stab vertical tube and the hinge tube, and the same on the rudder hinge. 

I also made the chord of all my tail feathers parts 6" more than the early Kitfoxes, and added trimtabs.

EDMO

Edited 2 Nov 2014 by Ed In Missouri

[LSaupe 123]

Original post entered in error.

 

As a can't find a way to delete I would like to say hi to everyone.  I am a new Kitfox III builder and live in the Southern Adirondacks of NY State.  Site looks to be a great resource.

 

Larry

Edited 3 Nov 2014 by LSaupe

[LSaupe 123]

Thanks for the feedback.  Snaps I will give you a call.  Thanks

[EDMO 1078]

Welcome aboard Larry,

     Lots of good people with lots of good info here.  Keep posting.

EdMO - Foxy Flapper -

[sioux201 84]

.035

[FoxDB 17]

I believe the more important question is; what is the OD & wall thickness of both vertical tubes of a Mod 4? The builder of my mod 1 extended the vert to be as a mod 4, but when flying it, if the rubber was fully deflected at cruise the vert would deflect about 3" at the top. This made be uncomfortable so I added guy wires.

Dave

[EDMO 1078]

The model 1 had a flimsy tail - If you extend it to model 4 heights, you need to do some reinforcing to make it strong enough. This would mean adding some support tubes, and increasing the vertical O.D. and wall thickness - one model used a square tube there, but it used the rods ends for hinges. I added a 6" taller dorsal fin to mine, along with more support tubes. I don't like airplane tails that shake when on the ground!

EDMO

Edited 7 Nov 2014 by Ed In Missouri

[Av8r3400 1179]

Which model used a square tube on the tail, Ed?  

 

My Mangy Fox is a Classic-IV and used the rod end bearing method of rudder hinge until I cut them off.  It uses round tube on the entire fuselage.  No square tube anywhere.

[EDMO 1078]

Larry,

I was thinking that the Vixen, or one of the model 5/6, used a square tube, and was shrouded by a tapered fiberglass cover, while the rudder had a round tapered fiberglass forward shroud cover - Have to check my books on that one.

I have both of the fiberglass covers.

EDMO

Larry, I have attached a copy of manual - the enlarged inset at upper left clearly shows the square VS vertical tube. I have other pages, but this shows it best.

EDMO

Edited 7 Nov 2014 by Ed In Missouri

[LSaupe 123]

Thanks for the image.  That is quite a bit different than the system I used.  (I basically used the old 4 place round-tube-pin-bushing system it had previously). Vertical height increase of the vert stab was 6.5"  When together reasonably well.

[EDMO 1078]

IMO - You used the best system. The rod-end system made a larger gap between the VS and Rudder.

I think you will make a big difference in the way it handles.

EDMO