Rudder Pedal Rub

[RDavidson 183]

Fellas,

While Working to fit the fuel selector cowling on my Avid Magnum, I dug out the moulded carpets that came with the kit and installed them in their rightful places. Unfortunately I found that with the bolt installed for the rudder cable attachment point on the rudder cables, there is not enough clearance from the boot cowl to have the carpet there.

Has anyone modified their rudder pedals to get more clearance?

I guess the easiest solution would be not to put carpet there. However, I'm sure someone has run into this before.

Thanks,

Ron

[High Country 69]

Pics would be helpful here but if I'm following correctly you're referring to the bolt that actually attaches the cable to the pedal. Are you already putting the bolt from outside to inside I assume? If not try flipping it around for more clearance. if this is already the case you could try replacing the bolt with a clevis pin http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/clevispinsgrid.php?clickkey=13442 thatwould allow more clearance with the shallower head. I had to do this on some of the linkages for my flapperons to prevent rubbing on the floor boards/belly skin area. 

 

-Robert-

[EDMO 1078]

Ron,

I would have to look at the manual to see how your Magnum is built, but one thing you may want to watch closely is the alignment of the cable with the nearest fairlead - There was a Kitfox owner who reported that his cable had worn thru the nylon bushing and rubbed on the steel sleeve, ruining the cable.

EDMO

[RDavidson 183]

Robert,

Sorry, I'm thinking things through while paint is drying, the fuselage is wrapped in plastic in my spray booth/garage so I can't get a pic yet.

You are spot on though, and a Clevis pin is a great solution! I didn't think of that! I can't believe how tight that clearance to the boot cowl is though! I will post a pic in a week or two.

Ed,

These are the 4130 tubing style pedals and you are right, it doesn't take much to bend or break them. On my other plane I was landing and noticed I was using full right rudder and still having issues keeping it from going left. I looked at the pedal and the tubing had actually ripped open starting at a welded intersection...not good!

Thanks guys!

Ron

[EDMO 1078]

Kitfox issued a SB a long time ago about welding a little triangle of sheet steel at the joint of the pedestal and the torque tube - Doug Holly posted his broken cable attach tube at the pedestal,  and I believe a repair he made.

EDMO

[TJay 1041]

It looks like that was number 38 but it says only for vixens, not sure but I would think it should be for all.

[dholly 718]

Skystar Service Letter #47 dated 8-22-95 re: Rudder Pedal Torque Tube Cracking was applicable to KF 1-4 and Classic 4.

Interestingly, my rudder pedal cracked at the joint of the rudder cable horn to vertical tube not at the torque tube to upright tube mentioned in the advisories.

I put pics here... http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/1781-fookididdy-fookfook-that-was-an-exciting-landing/?p=12439

[RDavidson 183]

Doug,

Thanks for the link! Ya, that is crazy! I had this happen in my Starduster Too, but luckily not in a crosswind landing!

My rudder pedals are a little different in size, but I think I will weld a gusset, maybe rectangular, from the rudder post all the way down to the control tube. Mine have a small gusset at the base, I wonder why they didn't put one at the top? The force is the same...

I found a picture, but it is a little blurry. You can see that the PO put turn buckles on the rudder attach point. Those are coming off and I will look at using the original straps and a Clevis pin to attach so that I will get a little more clearance from the fiberglass sides.

Thanks,

Ron

[EDMO 1078]

Ron,

     you can always swap ends with the turnbuckle If you have room to put it by the rudder - I prefer them to the straps for better adjustment of cables.

EDMO