Starting my kitfox 1 build pictures here

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Posted (edited)

I have never understood why they drilled and ran the tube thru the spar, when they could have run it thru the rib openings and across the back of the tank like Jim did - and the early ones may have had only a header tank or one wing tank.   Oh well, guess it worked - never heard of a spar breaking yet...maybe that spar insert has the strength to make up for it?

EDMO

Edited by EDMO

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Posted

One thing about it, when you run the line inside the rear spar, it's in the best place for folding the wing.  Jim Chuk

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One thing about it, when you run the line inside the rear spar, it's in the best place for folding the wing.  Jim Chuk

My thoughts exactly Jim. Also it should give a nice clean look inside the fuselage. This way the only thing I will see coming through the butt rib is the fuel lines. 

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Posted

FWIW, Drilling a hole in the "middle" of a tube, you have much less impact on the bending strength than if you drill in the top or bottom. Think of an I beam - you have lots of material at the top and bottom where it's needed for tension / compression, not so much in the middle for shear.

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Posted

Ok got the first coat of poly brush brushed in today and started on my light standoffs. Thank god for that exhaust fan in my paint booth wow that stuff stinks.

 

poly brush 001.JPG

poly brush 002.JPG

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Ok got the first coat of poly brush brushed in today and started on my light standoffs. Thank god for that exhaust fan in my paint booth wow that stuff stinks.

 

Looks good. MEK is not on the list of things that are good for you. But, it does smell enough that when it starts to break through the charcoal in your respirator, you know it. (unlike isocyanate)

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I don't know, but I love the smell of poly fiber in the morning!  Jim Chuk

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Posted (edited)

Ok got the first coat of poly brush brushed in today and started on my light standoffs. Thank god for that exhaust fan in my paint booth wow that stuff stinks.

 

poly brush 001.JPG

poly brush 002.JPG

Any reason you cut the light standoffs?   Most folks just epoxy them on as is....or use a heat gun to bend them to fit.

I think someone on here used rivets to attach them, and blended them in with 9460?

EDMO

Edited by EDMO

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Posted

 

I didn't think it was necessary to go up onto my wing tip 3 full inches. Now all I gotta do is a little epoxy fillet to make them look like they flow into the wing tip. It looked like a simpler way of doing it.  

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Posted

Good progress !!

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I didn't think it was necessary to go up onto my wing tip 3 full inches. Now all I gotta do is a little epoxy fillet to make them look like they flow into the wing tip. It looked like a simpler way of doing it.  

You also left a little weight off the plane. It's not much, but an ounce here and there, and soon you've saved another pound. Looks good. You sure are moving along on this thing.

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Posted

Got one wing stitched up today. Took a little while to learn how to do it but by the end of the wing was easy, Even glued some fake ones over the fuel tank.

 

Stitch 001.JPG

Stitch 002.JPG

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Posted

Looks fantastic.  Nice work!

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Wow!  you are really moving on that plane. Looking good.   Don't stop!  Jim Chuk

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Posted

Got some tape on today, still learning but starting to figure it out.

more tape 001.JPG

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Posted (edited)

One thing with the tapes, don't skimp on the polybrush.  If you don't use enough poly brush, you will get lots of pinked edges sticking up when you start spraying other coats.  Looking good though.  Keep at it!  Jim Chuk

Edited by 1avidflyer

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Posted

If you have pinked edges sticking up take a hobby iron and iron them down after you brush in the polybrush.

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Posted (edited)

If you have pinked edges sticking up take a hobby iron and iron them down after you brush in the polybrush.

Very true, but you will have way more sticking up if you are shy on the polybrush below the tapes.  Jim Chuk

Edited by 1avidflyer

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Posted

It is definitely a learning experience for me, But I'm having a blast doing it.

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Posted

If you have pinked edges sticking up take a hobby iron and iron them down after you brush in the polybrush.

Very true, but you will have way more sticking up if you are shy on the polybrush below the tapes.  Jim Chuk

yes putting enough polybrush on is common sense. A small hobby iron will stick down any rough edges.

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Ok today I finished the main tapes along with the trailing edge, Tomorrow I will tackle the false ribs and the leading edge tapes. I am loving the paint booth for keeping the smell out of the house.

 

trailing edge tape 001.JPG

trailing edge tape 002.JPG

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Posted

Good idea putting the rosin(?) paper on the floor...

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We'll there you have it boys tape is on! Just when I thought I was all done I realized I should probably put a few inspection rings in for future cut outs and some drain grommets in, But the thought of stapling some fabric to a couple boards and shrinking then cutting some doilies today didn't sound like fun,

 

finish tape 001.JPG

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Posted

Maybe a little late on the inspection rings - we put them on the inside before covering the top - guess it can be done either way - a coffee can or the lid is handy to use for a pattern, but my coffee now comes in square plastic cans, so maybe a paint can or lid will work...

EDMO

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Posted

Sorry Ed,  that's not the way the book says.  They go on the outside of the fabric.  I would put one by the liftstrut brackets, just to be able to look at them if you ever want to.  Also a few that would allow you to change the pitot tube and hose if you ever needed to.  Don't need them near the ends of the wings if your tips are removable.  As far as drain grommets, an 1/8" hole burned on each side of each rib at the trailing edge should take care of any water/condensation issues.  A small soldering iron works good for this as well as for the rib stiching holes.  Jim Chuk

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