Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

582 charging


35 posts in this topic

Posted

i didn't answer your question.....I don't know. look close at the output curve of your alternator. 35A may actually be fine. I bet the 50A breaker is a LOT of money :-)

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

So what are you building that needs anything bigger that a small alternator? Keep it light weight!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Chris,

     I have 2 Subaru engines - one has a heavy-looking Nippon standard-looking alternator, (I think), and the one for the plane has a light weight Nippon alternator with a factory skeletonized body - haven't bothered to weigh each of them - just planning on using the light-looking one that came with the engine that looks like the one I have a bid on.  Hope this makes sense - confused me to read it again!  Ha!

EDMO

Still wondering about the oversize pulley - read about doing that somewhere before because of high 4000+ cruise rpms, compared to average 2000 rpms for car travel at 55 mph.

Edited by Ed In Missouri

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

The oversize pully makes a lot of sense. You can easily figure out the RPM the Alt will be turning by doing a pully ratio calc to make sure the alt won't be over reved with the large pully. I'm sure specs are available for the alternator design RPM.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

The larger alternator pulley should slow down the rpms of the alternator, so it gets less wear, less chance of overrev - Right?

EDMO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

ChrisB

I will go the original rotax way ( message sent, thanks c5)

I will install a breaker between the regulater and battery as my original cook up was with an original reg

My battery is a ytx.14-bs.

When I start everything except the facet pump is off, would this low load possibly be some of my problem?

My engine guy reckons the only way to damage the charge coils is a back feed from the battery,

Even shorting them wouldn't harm them. Does this sound correct

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Here's the schematic that came with my Key West regulator. Shows a 16A fuse max on the DC output.

post-2-0-93898000-1435700752_thumb.jpg

Edited by akflyer
flipped picture to right side up for ya mr.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

I got all excited when i saw the thread title 582 charging.... I couldn't help but think supercharger or turbo?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

I would think that someone smart enough to be a moderator on here would at least post a schematic right side up!   :lol:

Well, at least you got it posted....

I probably wouldn't understand it anyway!

What say, Joey?

EDMO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Good info Joey, I need to put a fuse on my Key west. I've ran a key west for about 14 years on my weight shift trike and never had a problem, still going strong. My Kitfox has one as well and has always worked. Everyone on my field runs the blue key west rectifier and not a single one has had a problem. They're bullet proof in my opinion. Still It won't hurt to put a max charge fuse on the DC supply. Hot batteries have a tendency to go pop. 

 

On a side note the Rotax OEM rectifier I have seen fail on at least two aircraft. They promptly swapped out to the Key West. $65 Nuf said. 

Edited by rdooley79
2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0