Borescope Rotax 582


37 posts in this topic

Posted · Report post

 a cold seize it typical on 4 corners of the cylinder / piston.  I would pull the exhaust ports and take a better look in the them.  After a cold seize you may run it 300 hrs or 3 hrs.. the pistons and rings will tell a good story as well..

 

:BC:

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

If in doubt redo the top end !

Hone your bores to near their maximum limit(less chance of a repeat performance) and install a SBT top overhaul kit.

This kit visually looks good quality and as a bonus has Teflon skirts and ceramic crowns all for slightly more $ than one bare genuine piston(use the rotax careless bearings)

My 582 has never gone so well!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Really I wouldn't worry about it till your compression gets below 100 psi 2 strokes can run a long long time with a few scratches in them cylinders, letting it cool down on final doesn't hurt them as bad as everyone says, Its when people who dont know how to run a 2 stroke get on final and sit at 4000 rpm spiking your egts to 13 to 1400 degrees then punch it for a touch and go pouring the ice cold fuel in them cylinders  and watch your egts drop to 700 degrees thats what kills them, If your on final and you pull power back to 3000 to 3200 rpm you will have an engine that lasts many years.

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

I'd be pretty pissed if I had that kind of wear in less than 100 hours. I'm going to venture a guess that Lucas oil is subpar. I can see why 2 strokes have a bad name in aviation. 

I just pulled my 583 that was siezed after 20 hours on the hobbs. The previous owner went a little non standard with an Ellison throttle body carb and my guess is that he ran it lean in that time and blew it up. I just pulled jy motor yesterday to send it off to Rotax Rick for a 670 transformation. Your findings have made me curious and I'll run down to the Home Depot to see about buying that Ryobi scope.  I'll get some pics befor I send it off. I may even pull the cylinders today before I send it off.  What better way to learn than with an already messed up motor?

What brand scope is yours and what did it set you back. What scopes would you recommend?  Bang for the buck is my priority because ofhow little I'll use it. 

If your going with the 670 keep in mind I have a 74 inch Power Fin prop that is a perfect match for the 670

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

You are running thermostat in your 582 aren't you.  That will force the temps up to where a cold seizure isn't a worry.  Without it, your asking for trouble in cold weather.  I would pull the cylinders off the engine and look at the pistons to see if they are scuffed.  You can do a decarbon at the same time if  nothing is wrong, and even do it without puling the pistons off the wristpins if your want.  Little more messing around getting the rings off but easily doable. If you pull the wrist pins out, realize the wristpins bearings are all loose and will fall all over the place if you don't use a tool to hold them in place.  Some of the older 582s used caged wristpin bearings but newer ones dont'.  When you pull the nuts off the cylinder heads and the cylinders stay there, realize there are allen head bolts up near the top inside of the cylinder (on inverted engines) that hold the cylinders in place.  Remember the first one I did, I thought the gasket was just holding things in place, and I pried on things a bit before I looked up inside and seen the other bolts.  Take care,  Jim Chuk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

image.thumb.png.9d3d01cce7b33ebf57725c01image.thumb.png.589cc728b7fea3d470838e33image.thumb.jpeg.948355ee25a3cbca1ac97f1

 

Here's the new Ryobi scope and images. $89 at home depot and uses my iPhone via wifi to view and save the images and video. The saved images kinda stink compared to what was displayed in the screen. I think a screen shot is the way to go rather than having the app save the image. I'm not sure how I feel about the set up. It's missing a small mirror for sure, but I think I will lrobably keep it for the new 670. 

 

1 cylinder is perfect on my 582, the other....? I have no idea what the heck happened to the other. 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

The back cylinder had 1 cooling port completely plugged. Im guessing that side of the cylinder over heated and siezed. It sat for 20 years with coolent in it and rusted the piston to the cylinder. Had to hammer the piston out of the cylinder, and still didnt get it out completely. I ended up pulling the wrist pin when it cleared the cylinder enough to slide out. The piston is still stuck in the cylinder. 

The head gasket looked to be in place with no signs of coolent getting past it.  Im guessing the coolent came through a crack in the steel sleeve at one of the intake or exhaust ports? The powder and grit on the piston looks to be coolant that was ignited over and over in the combustion process? 

The head of the cylinder stud bolt closes to the plugged coolent port was almost completely coroded.  I almost didn't get it loose.

This is definately something I've never seen before. 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.eb4c23143c83b0e2f926a7dimage.thumb.jpeg.ea1d7519b5e8d35ebc96015

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

 

If your going with the 670 keep in mind I have a 74 inch Power Fin prop that is a perfect match for the 670

I think I'll start a seperate thread.  I need to know all of my options for the 670. I really like the look of wood, but man oh man, some of those Caito props look beautiful. From my preliminary digging the warp drive may be the best value.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Latest input: I did a compression check (use starter to turn over the warm engine at normal crank speed) and it showed identical compression at 119 PSI for the cylinders. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

If it was me, and I was at all worried about it, I would pull the cylinders, do a decarbon if that's all that's needed, and fly with one less worrying thought in the back of my mind when I go flying.  If there was a problem, I will have found it and fixed it before it came up and bit me.   YMMV  Jim Chuk

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

I prefer either Amsoil Interceptor or Quicksilver PWC ( made by Mercury & is a semi synthetic ) at 40 to 1 ratio.  Going from 50 to 1 to 40 to 1 ratio is only 3.2 oz's of oil in 5 gallons of gas. 

Fill a 5 gallon bucket with gas & pour in 3.2 oz's of oil. Tell me that is going to build to much carbon. Burnt bearings will stop the engine & I never saw a single engine out of over 850 engines I rebuilt that quit because of to much carbon. These new oils do not make carbon build up a issue any longer. Also 40 to 1 will help your pistons rings & seals last longer.  Using leaning ratios of premix will make more power & less chance of a plug flowing but WE HAVE DUAL IGNITION FOR THIS !!!  Plus power is never better than reliability in a Aircraft engine !!!  

I have rebuild the Rotax Ultralight crankshafts since Jan 1 2011 & have not had a single lower rod bearing fail on any 582 crankshaft that I rebuilt. That's unreal since 3 out of every 5 582's that fail are caused by the lower rod bearing failing.  Thats on over 650 crankshafts to date.   As far as 100 LL AvGas it is the very best fuel you can run in your Rotax engine.  If I lived in Alaska & had a place 25 miles from anyone I would be running 100 LL AvGas & 32 to 1 ratio. It does build a deposit on the piston tops by that does not effect anything.

I know & understand people try to help with the knowledge  they have in there limited experiences .  But I know & see what works & what doesn't work. 

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

We use Decalin to keep the 100LL deposits to a minimum. I also use Techron System Cleaner which keeps the carbon accumulation on my intake valves to a minimum.

Soon we will be getting Swift non-leaded and non-ethanol on our field.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now