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SQUASHPLATE ON WARP DRIVE PROP?

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Posted (edited)

I was just reading the factory installation pages on the STOLSPEED VGs, and noticed a sidebar which contained an article about PROPS - In reading about several different props and the interesting test results on a Zenith with 80 hp Rotax,  the writer then compared the WARP DRIVE prop, and stated that, "Warp Drive requires a squashplate on the outside of the hub" - This is the FIRST TIME I have ever heard this.   Can anyone verify this?  Would this be only for the 912 Rotax?

I have a Warp Drive 3-blade HD SAE2 hub and square blades for my EA-81 Subaru, but not mounted it yet.  I will probably call WD on this.

EDMO

Edited by EDMO

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Posted

For the spinner, I'm sure. 

I have a three blade Warp on 'Ol Yeller and no plate. I have a skull cap style spinner. 

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Posted (edited)

Larry,  I can't say that it might be for the spinner or not - they showed a photo of a plate (I believe they said "Warp Drive requires a Steel squashplate") on the front of the hub.  I have seen lots of photos of WD prop hubs and none ever had a plate on the front.   And, all the spinner bulkheads I have seen were thin aluminum.   EDMO

Edited by EDMO

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Posted

When I bought a warp for my challenger Daryl said to take the 3/16 aluminum plate right from the front of the wood Tennessee and use it the same way on the warp, But I didn't buy the expensive HPL hub Maybe that's why,

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Posted

I wouldn't install a prop without a crush plate either. Even if it is made out of carbon fiber it needs something to distribute the pressure a little more evenly than just the head of the bolt or washer to the surface of the prop. 

When I build my own props I almost always have two to three layers of fiberglass over the center hub, with at least one on the blades. When I use the standard crush plate it still leaves a slight impression on the fiberglass. I know how bad it would be without that plate there. Having worked wood almost my entire life I've seen things that have really proven the worth of a something to spread the pressure out. Carbon fiber or any other composite does act much more like wood than you'd think. 

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Posted (edited)

I will be calling Daryl at Warp Drive before mounting the prop.  I will post his reply.      EDMO

Edited by EDMO

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Posted

Ed,

After following this discussion for a while the question of whether or not to use a faceplate on a warp drive prop sounded like something i'd read when getting ready to install my prop.  After some searching I located the installation instructions that came with my model HP prop.  On the second page of the instructions, under Mounting your propeller, in paragraph 1 it says "IMPORTANT" All Warp Drive propellers must have a faceplate mounted on the outside of the hub.  These plates are normally 1/4'' or 3/8'' thick aluminum and are supplied with the engine."  On my installation I used the steel plate that the spinner attaches to as the faceplate.  I have the 6'' aluminum spinner.

Hope this helps.

Jack  

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for the good info Jack - I got my HP hub and blades separately and both were used, so I have had no instructions on the installation.  I think I need to get back with Daryl at Warp Drive and see what he says, or buy the faceplate too.   I need to get a copy of those instructions.   I also have the blade pitch tool from WD.  

This may get a lot of people thinking about their Warp Drive installations.     

I found outer plates in Spruce for SAE1 & 2 for about $36 each.

Could I get a copy of the HP instructions from you?   EDMO

Edited by EDMO

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Posted

Ed,

I'll see what I can do after my geek(wife) gets up. Do you want the instructions faxed or by email?

Jack

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Posted

Jack,  I don't have a fax - you could maybe post them on here or PM them to me and I can print them out - or I can pay you postage and get them by snail mail - I can PM you my address.   Whatever your expert suggests.   I might, with wife's permission, give you her email in a PM, and she can get it that way for me.   I stay in trouble because I get emails to her from ebay - I don't use email, don't have an Iphone, do well to turn this site on!  Thanks very much.  EDMO

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Posted

Ed Going to try to attach a file with the Warp Drive info in it.  It's a pdf file, should open ok.

Jack

Warp Drive Info.pdf

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Posted (edited)

Thanks Jack - I have saved it, and printing it out now - I hope... 

CONTINUEING WITH WARP DRIVE QUESTIONS:   Do the 912 Rotax engines have drive lugs on the prop flange?  My 532 did not have them.   The reason I am asking is because my EA-81 does not have drive lugs, and it was flown for 75 hours with a Warp Drive prop.   Daryl at WD told me that he had made some hubs without the indentations in the back for drive lugs.  So I guess the Six 3/8 bolts in the SAE2 hub can hold the prop just fine without any drive lugs.   There is a centering boss on the flange.   EDMO

Edited by EDMO

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Posted

My 912 with the Warp prop has threaded drive lugs pressed into the flange.  I think these are factory lugs, since they are a metric thread.

Rotax lists several different metric thread size lugs. I think ACS lists an SAE thread lug for Rotax.

Lonie Prince sent me non-threaded drive lugs for his setup. (This is a carbon covered wood core prop.)   These are made by his machine shop. 

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Posted (edited)

Thanks Larry,   My flange is threaded 3/8-24, and no recess for drive lugs.   EDMO

Edited by EDMO

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Posted

Hi Ed,

I don't have drive lugs on my warp drive or IVO props with the SAE1 flange.  Jacks WD with whirlwind blades doesn't have lugs either.  I think the SAE pattern with the 3/8 bolts are pretty good either way and I have not seen any indication of movement.  If you are going to use a wood prop or the smaller Rotax hub on a 100 hp motor you probably should use lugs.  There are also no lugs between the redrive and the prop extension.  The redrive smooths out the pulses as well so a direct drive motor may be a different story.

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Posted (edited)

Hi Ed,

I don't have drive lugs on my warp drive or IVO props with the SAE1 flange.  Jacks WD with whirlwind blades doesn't have lugs either.  I think the SAE pattern with the 3/8 bolts are pretty good either way and I have not seen any indication of movement.  If you are going to use a wood prop or the smaller Rotax hub on a 100 hp motor you probably should use lugs.  There are also no lugs between the redrive and the prop extension.  The redrive smooths out the pulses as well so a direct drive motor may be a different story.

Randy,  Did your warp drive hub have the indentations for drive lugs on the back?  I have some steel spacers that fit into those places, and thinking about putting them in and set them flush with 9460 or JB Weld.   Any thoughts?   Thanks,  EDMO

Edited by EDMO

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