YAMAHA Genesis (RX-1) install in Kitfox 5

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Posted

he was referring to the snowmachine test. 

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Posted

I wonder how much lower the prop flange will be? If Teals adapter is 9in from center to top of motor.

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Posted (edited)

I wonder how much lower the prop flange will be? If Teals adapter is 9in from center to top of motor.

The engine is mounted at an angle toward the left, or normal pilot's seat, so you cant use that as an "up and down" measurement.  The rotax gearbox raises the height of the prop flange up from the center of the adapter.  Maybe someone can give you better measurements?  I don't think you can plan much until you get the engine and adapter.  EDMO

Edited by EDMO

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Posted (edited)

RX-1 ENGINE MEASUREMENTS  (with Skytrax adapter and c box attached)

For anyone considering this motor, here's some rough measurements:

Total length is right about 27.75" from back of motor to prop hub.

Total height about 18

From engine top to prop center is about 7.5"

Width about 13" (without exhaust or airbox)

Some tilt of the motor could be done (my install will be fairly vertical (see pics).  Tilting would make overall height slightly less (16 maybe) and width a little more (15ish).  Tilting would also bring prop center down and left slightly.

In my install, I am aiming for the prop hub to come out exactly where the subaru did.  This will require a hood cutout and "bubble" on the top to allow for the cylinder head to protrude about 2.5 inches (the subaru cowl was sloped down alot since that motor was a boxer: wide and not tall)

20170925_171041.jpg

Edited by MN Kitfox 2

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Posted (edited)

CARB CLEANING AND RX-1 SHOP MANUAL:

The most common question on the RX-1 snowmobile forum seems to be regarding rough running old sleds.  The canned advice I see a lot is "clean your carbs and post us in the morning".

I posted a reprint from an expert in the snowmo forum on how to clean these carburetors.  I also posted the RX-1  APEX and C Box service manuals here:

RVSimons did a beautiful job of cleaning up my carbs and supplying me with new orings for float bowl covers and main jet towers.  Thanks Vance!

I decided to go totally new in there and also bought the needle and seat kits which includes orings on the back side of the seat.  If they get crusty (see pic), pressurized fuel will leak around the seat and flood the carb.  My sled had that trouble and I just cleaned em up.  In the plane I want new.

 

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Edited by MN Kitfox 2

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Posted (edited)

And another quick tip from the sled heads.  Get sst socket head cap screws to replace the phillips heads holding float bowls on.  The damn phillips ones round out waaay too easy.

Size is M4x8

 

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Edited by MN Kitfox 2

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Posted

Keep the post coming, I an on the edge of my seat:BC:

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Posted (edited)

TUBE COPING / FISHMOUTH TEMPLATES

Starting in on the mount.

You smart guys already know about this, but for anyone like myself who didn't know:

Go to the site below and enter your tube dia, thickness, the angle of the joint, and the mating tube dia.

You get a printable template that you can trace to make a perfect grind on the first try.  Way too cool!

http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi

(I happily threw this guy a few bucks donation to help keep the site going: https://www.dreamhost.com/donate.cgi?id=1797 )

(Oh yeah, and this guy too!  http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/2202-contributions-to-keep-site-going/ )

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Edited by MN Kitfox 2

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Posted

This is very cool. I've never used this before. I used to grind and fit and grind and fit etc. until bought a JD squared beast. Thanks for sharing your progress Brett, new and experienced builders will benefit from your build.

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Posted

I have used that printable template calculator for a variety of diameters and angles. As long as I feed it good information, it works EVERY time. Especially cool when dealing with two tubes of different diameters. Bookmark the link and remember you have it saved!

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Posted (edited)

I'm a moron, but I was able to hit my very first fitup nuts on with the first grind!

Trick #2  is to make templates for both ends of the tube, wrap them on the tube and tape them up so they will still slip off.  

Next sleeve the two paper tubes together and fit them up on your work (paper tube only, see pic).  Spin and slide them till they line up and contact perfectly, then tape the two halves of the paper tube together at that alignment and slide them on the raw tube.  

Mark the tube with a sharpie and grind both ends perfectly in one shot.

For longer sections of tube, I made my paper tube template with an extra section of rolled paper between the cope templates.

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Edited by MN Kitfox 2
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Posted

That's a good method.  I was aware of the template generator, but didn't figure out the best way to handle the two ends.

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Posted (edited)

Thanks everyone for tuning in here and watching over my work.  I really do appreciate it and welcome the experienced oversight!

Most of my info is well known to the old pros on this site I'm sure, but hopefully I can contribute a little here and there sometimes to pay ya'll back for watching over the rookie.

And hopefully this "ordinary guy" build thread will inspire others that: "if THAT guy can do it.... I could do it!"   LOL 

Edited by MN Kitfox 2
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Posted (edited)

OK.  Mount is all done and ready for the pro welder and paint.  Wish akflyer or chopndrag were closer to me!

Next will be some slow going while planning out and ordering all the little hardware and connections for oil and  cooling systems.

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Edited by MN Kitfox 2

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Posted (edited)

OIL LEVEL LOW WARNING LIGHT 

I checked the oil dipstick in the yamaha oil tank.  It has a float switch integrated in the dipstick that senses oil level.  The two electrical leads to the dipstick have continuity when the oil is low, and are open when oil is adequate.  Looks like it would be simple to wire up a panel indicator light for low oil.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/ATI-22mm-12V-DC-Red-LED-Flashing-Buzzer-Pilot-Panel-Indicator-Light/221805674839?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3D3c2c8a55e64c42819050cf45a128bd70%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D221805674839&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507

Edited by MN Kitfox 2
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Posted

Nice job. What kind of door latch is that? How about a picture of lower mount area.

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Posted (edited)

Nice job. What kind of door latch is that? How about a picture of lower mount area.

New plane for me, not real nuts about the door latch.  Works great, but it is a little tough to get to and open from the cockpit  in a hurry (egress).  On the to-do list to modify.

 

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Edited by MN Kitfox 2
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Posted

Before you paint, I would suggest taking with Leni directly about making a Jig off that mount.  You may be able to sell the jig to him so he can go production...

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Posted (edited)

Before you paint, I would suggest taking with Leni directly about making a Jig off that mount.  You may be able to sell the jig to him so he can go production...

That's a nice compliment to my first attempt at a motor mount.  Thanks!

But like with Leni's new bush gear design, I would want to test this out a bit, prove it out, and look for possible improvements before considering having other people copy it.

There are a lot of KF 5-7s out there, and I think the 4 uses a very similar mount.  I've also heard that the RX-1 and Apex use the same mount, so it is possible there may be some interest in it I guess.

 

 

Edited by MN Kitfox 2
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Posted

Wow! very nice.  Do you have someone to weld it up for you?  There is a guy in Hibbing that does tig welding on airplanes.  He is the welding instructor at the Eveleth tech school.  He has done stuff for me in the past and is going to weld up the improvements on my Kitfox 4 rebuild.  JImChuk

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Posted (edited)

RX 1 ENGINE OVERVIEW AND PROJECT PROGRESS:

 

In my video (above) you see Teal's Skytrax adapter mounted with a Rotax C box.  Truly the work of a craftsman!   This 2nd video is Teal with the install instructions for the adapter, C box, and clutch / hardy disk.

Edited by MN Kitfox 2
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Posted

Very nice  video.  Very informative as well.  JImChuk

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Posted

I would triangulate your mount where the upper and side mounts connect to the runners. see picture.

bret.mount2.png

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Posted (edited)

 

Good idea.  Thanks for checking it over!

Yes and as I was talking with a buddy here today, I think I will get it back from the welder, mount up the motor and fit all the accessories  (airbox, oil tank, coolant system, ect).  Then I'll mark off where I can add in some extra tube.  In studying other examples it looks like I should be doing exactly what you suggest, essentially running two braces from every firewall mount location, making a triangle of support from each.

I was also hoping to get one of glen's or steve's headers.  With those designs I could also add a long tube out between cyl 2 and 3 from the left mount point.

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Edited by MN Kitfox 2

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Posted

I wonder what the fwf will weigh?

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