Subaru E81 head needed


13 posts in this topic

Posted

Looks like I'm in the market for a 82 Subaru E81 head.  My exhaust manifold (where the pipe connects) is close to unusable.  An A&P tells me it 'might' be OK for awhile, but probably not for long.  I'd rather replace the head than take a chance on the piece giving way halfway to wherever.  So, if anyone had a left head for sale or know of one, please let me know.  I've emailed Zodiac to see if they have parts for sale, but haven't heard from them yet. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

There's at least 3 guys here that have subaru parts for sale, so id bet you'll find your part.

Mine is a NSI subaru that I am looking to sell to a NSI guy that wants a complete engine as a parts wagon!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Looks like I'm in the market for a 82 Subaru E81 head.  My exhaust manifold (where the pipe connects) is close to unusable.  An A&P tells me it 'might' be OK for awhile, but probably not for long.  I'd rather replace the head than take a chance on the piece giving way halfway to wherever.  So, if anyone had a left head for sale or know of one, please let me know.  I've emailed Zodiac to see if they have parts for sale, but haven't heard from them yet. 

What makes it "close to unusable"?  I have never heard of that.  Is it eroded where the seal sits?  Junk yards, engine rebuild shops and used Subaru dealers are where I found cheap parts although I ended up buying a complete converted engine and a spare engine.  Most of the years heads are interchangeable, depending on your engine, lots of them for conversions had the heads milled about .040 and washers put under the rockers, so make sure you have what is going to be a proper replacement, so send a head to a shop that does this.  Changing the cam grind is also common on plane engines.  

I have manuals on the Soob cars, and I would have to check it for info.  Some had solid lifters and others hydraulic and the cams are not interchangeable.  Seems like maybe around the early 90s the Station Wagons had larger valves which are desirable.  Some have opened up the heads to take the larger valve seats to use those valves.  If the exhaust port is eroded, I would check with a rebuilder to see if there is possibly some milling or an insert that could be used to make them OK.   Let me know if I can look up anything in the manual. 
EDMO

Edited by EDMO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Studs broke off/stripped when exhaust pipe met immovable object.  Unwisely, I decided I could put helicoils in myself.  Aluminum can be ground out pretty quickly if you're not careful.  Ergo.....new head needed. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Studs broke off/stripped when exhaust pipe met immovable object.  Unwisely, I decided I could put helicoils in myself.  Aluminum can be ground out pretty quickly if you're not careful.  Ergo.....new head needed. 

Personally, I don't like helicoils - partly because of the expensive taps you need, and because I have had trouble with them.  I prefer using the solid inserts that take standard thread taps, usually 2 standard sizes larger and larger than helicoil threads - they usually have Loctite on them,  and you might have to supplement it with Hi-Temp Loctite in an exhaust area.   Check on them if you can go larger on the holes and you might save the head.  Aluminum can also be repaired by welding, so that is another possibility.  I don't have any metric ones, but have several standard sizes - If I have any that you could use I will give them to you - again, you might want to have a shop put them in.  You can use American studs and nuts on your exhaust flanges.  Guessing the studs are about 5/16'?   You have to use the proper size drill before tapping the threads into the head. 

Adding:  Some solid inserts have little pins in slots on the sides of them - you screw them in and then drive the pins home and you don't ever worry about them coming loose - better for high-heat areas than Loctite - I have some.  You can always buy them in metric sizes and taps too - but why buy if "Humarican sizes" are free?   EDMo 

Edited by EDMO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Looks like I'm in the market for a 82 Subaru E81 head.  My exhaust manifold (where the pipe connects) is close to unusable.  An A&P tells me it 'might' be OK for awhile, but probably not for long.  I'd rather replace the head than take a chance on the piece giving way halfway to wherever.  So, if anyone had a left head for sale or know of one, please let me know.  I've emailed Zodiac to see if they have parts for sale, but haven't heard from them yet. 

..let me check with Willis (Marshawk) but I think there might be one around if you cant find anything closer. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Be extra careful if you take the rockers off of the head - look for small washers under them - this indicates the head has been milled.   Also Subaru says to take your pushrods off in an orderly way and not flip them upside down and stick them into holes in a piece of cardboard and mark the locations on the cardboard so they can be put back in the same order.  You should put your old rockers on the new head in same order.  EDMO  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

I do have some heads for a ea 81, not sure what year there off of but I can take a picture if you can't find anything closer to you

 

Willis

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

I've got a 31K original miles stick shift engine complete that I would take $500 for plus shipping.  I would have to look for the year.  I think most of the years don't matter as much as maybe lifter types?   I think hydraulic lifters were only on SOME automatic transmission engines, but not sure about that.   I would also have to get some help to load it and ship it, or better if you could come to Missouri for it.    I still think your best possible fix is to see if a rebuild shop can put in some inserts or weld and re-tap the head, or find a used head locally.  If you tell me what size the studs will be I will see if I have the right size U.S. thread inserts and send you some.  EDMO

Edited by EDMO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

I do have some heads for a ea 81, not sure what year there off of but I can take a picture if you can't find anything closer to you

 

Willis

Willis, I may not need to replace mine.  Will know Monday.  Have a fantastic machine shop in the next town and he thinks he can take care of my mess.  If that doesn't work, will get back with you.  My soob is a '82-84, 1800. 
Don

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

I have the aftermarket - forget brand - books on Subaru cars - I am almost certain that it lists the serial number range for engines each year.  Not that they changed much, but I can probably tell you exactly what year your engine was made.  Hope you get the head fixed and save some $$$.  EDMO

Edited by EDMO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

My 'miracle worker' in a (somewhat) local machine shop managed to repair my amateur work.  It was probably an easy fix for a pro, but I appreciate his work.  Reinstalled the head today and ran the engine for about 10 minutes.  Afterwards, no oil, water or pieces of metal were on the floor underneath, and very little blood, so I'm counting this as a victory.  Will run it for a while longer tomorrow and then recheck my torque on all the bolts. Advice from this forum (thanks, EDMO), and offers of finding parts are just fantastic. I appreciate all you guys! 

3 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

We (Machinists and Toolmakers) enjoy our "Miracles" that Mortal Men cannot conceive of how simple it is!  ;<)  Do you know that the Toolmaker was the 2nd oldest trade in the world?  He needed something to trade the lady doing the oldest trade!  Ha!  Congrats,  EDMO

Edited by EDMO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now