Another Wing Spar Question


29 posts in this topic

Posted

Others have mentioned sanding out the scratches with finer sandpaper.  I tend to agree with that approach.  My Avid manual says to use 360 grit.  Also, just one other thought, does a crack start to appear if there is no flexing?  I would guess not.  I think these spars with the internal web are stiffer than the standard round tube with a stiffener slid in.  JImChuk

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Posted (edited)

Thanks, yes I did not realize that the new spars did not have an I-beam all the way through. I can see where the flex would be more, and the new spars do not have the extra support of a full length I-beam. True?  If so, my spar is way over engineered comparatively, it seems, and stiffer.

Edited by jeffcoaj
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Posted

Another side note... I am constantly called out to the field to look at undercut on welds or mechanical gouging on pipes.  For the most part, the gouging will look much worse than it actually is.  Something that looks bad often will measure well under a 64th deep and is of no concern.  I would say the roughness in your pics look worse than it really is.  Without a dial indicator or pit gauge its tough to say for certain but 99% of the time it looks much worse than it really is.

:BC:

 

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Posted

Another side note... I am constantly called out to the field to look at undercut on welds or mechanical gouging on pipes.  For the most part, the gouging will look much worse than it actually is.  Something that looks bad often will measure well under a 64th deep and is of no concern.  I would say the roughness in your pics look worse than it really is.  Without a dial indicator or pit gauge its tough to say for certain but 99% of the time it looks much worse than it really is.

:BC:

 

thanks for your expertise, and your comments reinforce what I was thinking. I was wondering if there were any example pictures of “no go”, or just some examples (descriptions) from past experience.

thanks again.

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