Replacing windshield

89 posts in this topic

Posted

I going to replace the windshield soon. I have a whole roll of Lexan from another project. Can you guys tell me what those fasteners are along then bottom of the windscreen? Pictures attached. Also, is there any changes I should consider while I have it apart? 

Vance 

30FDF8E1-BA1F-47A0-A538-D105BD86BE94.jpeg

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Posted

Can't tell what your fasteners are, but I've used large (truss)  head 1/8" aluminum pop rivits with an 1/8" washer on the inside.  JImChuk 

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Posted (edited)

Personal choice - from past cracking experiences - I like the little rubber grommets in oversize holes for # 6 or 8 bolts with a stainless washer under the head - rubber washers under stainless washers will do the same - I wont use rivets in Lexan or Plexi.  Places like you show can be a PIA to get the locknuts on, so you can use rivnuts or clipnuts instead.   A 1/2" wide strip of windshield sealer ribbon from Auto Parts Store under the Lexan will give a good seal too.   All bolt holes without Grommets should be drilled at least 1/16" (.060") over bolt size.   EDMO

Edited by EDMO

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Posted

Both my aircraft have screws into a Captive nut in the glare shield ,works well also put a moulding along the lower edge to keep the rain out .

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Posted

Personal choice - from past cracking experiences - I like the little rubber grommets in oversize holes for # 6 or 8 bolts with a stainless washer under the head - rubber washers under stainless washers will do the same - I wont use rivets in Lexan or Plexi.  Places like you show can be a PIA to get the locknuts on, so you can use rivnuts or clipnuts instead.   A 1/2" wide strip of windshield sealer ribbon from Auto Parts Store under the Lexan will give a good seal too.   All bolt holes without Grommets should be drilled at least 1/16" (.060") over bolt size.   EDMO

Thank you EDMO. You wouldn't by chance have a picture of the gromment / bolt set up would you? I don't think installing nut plates would be that bad since I am removing the dashboard to recover it with trunk liner. I will take it down to my EAA folks and see what they have that might work.

Vance

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Posted

Vance,  I don't have any photos - I don't remember if I got the grommets from Lowes, West Marine, or Auto parts place - Think they were like 1/4 or 5/16 OD and the ID was just loose enough for the screws to fit loosely - stainless washers were about same OD - larger than bolt heads.  Hope this helps.  I used the same on my boat consoles windshields and never had a problem even with folks grabbing the unsupported tops of them to hold their balance in rough water in Alaska.  EDMO

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Posted

Thank you. I got it apart in about 30 min. I have to say I’m not impressed with how this was installed. All the rivets used were to short and most didn’t even protrude through the ribs. The front ones were tapered head soft rivets that were also to short. We will do a much better job installing the new windscreen.

 

2CEC8A49-65AE-4FD1-AFD5-32C8E6488F2B.jpeg

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Posted (edited)

Picture of the windscreen off

Avidwindscreen1.jpg

Edited by rvsimons
picture did not load the first attempt.

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Posted

That looks like either a countersunk solid or tubular rivet head to me. I would replace using nutsert plates on the glare shield and nylon washers under a large pan head screw in an oversize hole (assuming you don't have interference with the cowl which may be why the original fasteners were countersunk?). IMHO the nylon washers provide for less friction during the expansion/contraction process than metal washers, but that is only my unsubstantiated suspicion. I also used nylon washers under rivet heads when attaching the windscreen/skylight to butt ribs.

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Posted

I already bought the truss head screws, grommets and SS washers. I will give this a try this round and plan for nutplates next time around. 

Yes, those were large tapered head rivets. They were to short for the application. 

Hope to get this windshield cut and drilled today.  

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Posted

While I had the winshield apart I decided to remove the old dash cover and put something else on. Got this at JoAnn Fabric for $3.00. It’s trunk liner.  It’s also used to cover speaker boxes. One can of 3m spray adhesive and I was in business. 

 

image.jpg

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Posted

Well Crap!! I got half way into fabricating the new windshield and figured out my Lexan was    1/32 instead of 1/16.   :lmao:

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Posted (edited)

Well Crap!! I got half way into fabricating the new windshield and figured out my Lexan was    1/32 instead of 1/16.   :lmao:

Mine is 3/32 or .090" thick.  Also, separate from Skylight, which I prefer to be dark tinted.  They had problems with the .118" material cracking on some planes, so they went back to .090.  EDMO

Edited by EDMO
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Posted

Well Crap!! I got half way into fabricating the new windshield and figured out my Lexan was    1/32 instead of 1/16.   :lmao:

Wow, that is thin.   Should be able to roll it up in a 6" diameter roll if it's that thin.   Just looked, and ACS doesn't even sell it that thin, they start at .060" thick. (1/16")  I see their prices are a good bit lower on it than they used to be. I'm sure the last time I looked at getting some from them it was $98 for a 4x8 sheet.  Now it's $62.  http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/me/lexan/202  http://seelyeplastics.com/4_leadedge.php    I bought mine from a more local source, Seelye Plastics, they have dealers around the country.   I paid $52 after sales tax a few years back.  JImChuk

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Posted (edited)

I think the harder surface Lexan may be the best - Forget the brand name of it tho.  EDMO

Edited by EDMO

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Posted

Makrolon?

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Posted

I think Makrolon is more scratch resistant and less prone to yellowing, that's what I used on my Mk-IV and A+.

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Posted

Well the good thing about living in a populated area is you can find supplies. I could not find 3/32 but I found 1/16 Makrolon. It's for $56.00 a 4 x 8 sheet.  

:BC:

 

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Posted

Please keep us informed on how this stuff stands up to scratches and such compared to regular lexan.  Sounds like a real good price.  JImChuk

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Posted

While I had the winshield apart I decided to remove the old dash cover and put something else on. Got this at JoAnn Fabric for $3.00. It’s trunk liner.  It’s also used to cover speaker boxes. One can of 3m spray adhesive and I was in business. 

 

image.jpg

Is that a rotax 912  I see?

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Posted

I just replaced mine again as well and used large head aluminum rivets.  I have replaced mine multiple times due to yellowing or getting gas on it. 

Normally I use large shears to cut out the windscreen but this time I tried out my Makita cordless shears.. Man what a sweet way to cut the lexan!  Zips right through it in half the time it used to take me!

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Posted

While your screen is out consider painting or wrapping satin black vinyl around the 2struts from your dash top as these reflect on the screen and can ruin some photos.

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Posted

While your screen is out consider painting or wrapping satin black vinyl around the 2struts from your dash top as these reflect on the screen and can ruin some photos.

That is a great idea Dusty. Thank you for the suggestion.

:flag:

 

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