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Need help

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Posted

Is their a place to stick a steel pin into the crank to stop the motor from turning over while removing c box. The reason I ask is the person who was going to buy my motor says that is how you have to do it to remove the 19mm bolt that holds the stock rubber puck. I used a impact gun and it came out easy.. Thanks

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Posted (edited)

Jared,  I opened and read the service manual that Yamma-Fox posted:  It did say that you need to insert a special pin into the crank because without it you "could" damage the crankcase while removing bolt.  That don't mean that you trashed the engine.  ???  I will leave that up to the guys who have worked on them.   EDMO

Edited by EDMO

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Posted

Jared,  I opened and read the service manual that Yamma-Fox posted:  It did say that you need to insert a special pin into the crank because without it you "could" damage the crankcase while removing bolt.  That don't mean that you trashed the engine.  ???  EDMO

So how do you confirm?

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Posted

Jared,  I opened and read the service manual that Yamma-Fox posted:  It did say that you need to insert a special pin into the crank because without it you "could" damage the crankcase while removing bolt.  That don't mean that you trashed the engine.  ???  EDMO

So how do you confirm?

It don't say - Just to put the pin in.  ?   EDMO

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Posted

Looking in my manual, it says the pin goes into the pulse hose nipple.  One way I can see how you could damage the crankshaft without using the pin would be if you held the opposite end of the crank from turning, and then torqued on  the bolt holding the piece on the tapered end of the crankshaft.  The crank is actually made from a bunch of pieces pressed together.  So then you could twist the crank.  If you are just keeping the crank from turning by holding the flywheel from turning, then I would say you are not likely to twist the crank.  If I remember right, I put two bolts into the flywheel, put a bar through those two bolts, and turned the bolt holding the flywheel to the crank.  JImChuk

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Posted

Looking in my manual, it says the pin goes into the pulse hose nipple.  One way I can see how you could damage the crankshaft without using the pin would be if you held the opposite end of the crank from turning, and then torqued on  the bolt holding the piece on the tapered end of the crankshaft.  The crank is actually made from a bunch of pieces pressed together.  So then you could twist the crank.  If you are just keeping the crank from turning by holding the flywheel from turning, then I would say you are not likely to twist the crank.  If I remember right, I put two bolts into the flywheel, put a bar through those two bolts, and turned the bolt holding the flywheel to the crank.  JImChuk

I had the spark plugs in ,and held it with my hand and used a impact gun. I could see using the pin if I was working on the other end of the motor.

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Posted

No no no don’t use the pin! It’ll damage the crank. Instead drop about 18” of  1/4” cotton rope down s spark plug hole and bring the piston as close to tdc as you can to lock it. 

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Posted

Jared,  I just sent you a couple of private messages.  JImChuk

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Posted

Guess we will see what happens tomorrow. I am waking up at 4:30 to catch the boat to meet this guy, if the sale goes through I will drive down to Oregon 6 hrs  and get a sled then double back north to my bros house hopefully by 2am take a nap , go to Costco and other chores then  catch the 4:30pm boat home, that is the dream.:( Thanks for the help.:BC:

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Posted

Joey is the winner on this one. Any other method COULD cause the crank to become misaligned. Mike

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Posted

Leading edge airfoils told me once to never  use an impact gun on an aircraft engine. I said I have pulled  hundreds of clutches off of snowmobile engines that way.  They said doesn't matter just don't do it. And I never have.  So its up to the buyer.

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Posted (edited)

If you held the flywheel from turning with your hand, there is no feasible way you could twist the crank!

Sit Issac Newton would have to agree: The force of the wrench being coutered equally and oppositely by the flywheel itself... no other force being applied (oppositely) anywhere down the crank.

That you countered the force with human hand power makes this not even worth discussing (even if you happen to be the reigning champion world's strongest man :) ).  But even if you put a huge torque down on the bolt and held back ONLY on the flywheel by mechanical means you could never hurt anything but the bolt, threads, or flywheel.  Thats why snowmo clutches are removed by holding back via the clutch when you load the puller. Torque ranges on those go up to 110 ft-lbs to tighten and alot more when "popping" the clutch off.

I have used the rope method, but one could argue that SOME force is being applied through the crank (and to the piston dome) in doing that.   Not enough IMO to ever hurt anything though.

Sounds lile a twitchy buyer that might be trying to corner you into a "steal of a deal".

Edited by Yamma-Fox

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Posted

I have had good luck with the rope-trick myself. If you are worried about twist, use the cylinder closest to the end being worked on. Goes without saying, leave plenty of cord hanging out of the spark plug hole... :P

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Posted

Somewhere hidden away on this board is the complete rare hard to find Rotax 2 cycle engine overhaul manual. I uploaded it a long time ago. it's a bit of work to print out and organize, but it is the most valuable document for working on 582's etc.

I did many a rebuild using it as my primary reference and never had an engine problem following the procedures outlined in it. I did make my own "special" tools rather than buy them, and sometimes they didn't look much like the rotax tools but following the basics of that manual helped a lot when dealing with issues like this topic. 

Just a suggestion to let folks know the manual is here on the board if you are not aware of its existence. 

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Posted

Chris is it based off the old CD that used to float around?

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Posted

I think you guys are talking about a better (more legible) copy than the one I posted:

 

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Posted

There is no CD that I am aware of, but that doesn't mean there isn't a CD somewhere. I bought mine from Lockwood and it was a black and whit pretty poor quality Xerox of an original they must have had. As far as I know the manual I am talking about (that I uploaded to this site) does not exist in current rotax publications.

If you are working on a 582 it is the best resource that I am aware of.

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Posted

I searched to find the copy I uploaded and found a MUCH MUCH better copy someone else has placed a link to here on the site. Here is the post:

This link will get you to a clean version of the manual to print out. 

http://www.reaa.ru/yabbfilesB/Attachments/RepairManual582UL.pdf

or use the copy I downloaded.

RotaxRepairManual582UL.pdf

 

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Posted

Thanks!  That is the one I posted, bit a MUCH better copy.  Ill add that over in files section

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Posted

Home at last..:rolleyes:Sold the motor, the wrench said their is no way I could hurt the motor and the buyer looked at him funny Cave me the cash and I headed for Oregon.Turns out it was 8 hrs down their half hour to inspect and another 8 hrs to my bros house made it their at 12, long day, caught the 240 ferry boat home. The rx1 sounds amazing I hate to take apart such a nice looking piece of art..Now I need Teals number.

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Posted

Welcome to the club bro!

+16237340185

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Posted

Welcome to the club bro!

+16237340185

I am going to catch up to you:BC:

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Posted

You'll blow right by me man!

Looking forward to it!  I'll be putting your ideas in my build thread and take all the credit LOL!

:lmao:

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