Big wheels and upgraded gear wanted for Avid 4

19 posts in this topic

Posted (edited)

As per the title!

Cheers, Sam.

Edited by Sam Rutherford

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Posted

Finding used stuff is going to be near impossible as it gets picked up quick. I've been looking for Avid / Kitfox gear for a long time and have not ran onto one set of other than the stock stuff people have laying around after an upgrade. This leaves you with either having a set made or building your own. Same with wheels and tires. I have a set of big rims and tires I got off of a wrecked Avid. I've been looking for a set of gear to put them on for awhile but nothing comes up for sale. 

There is a guy on Barnstormers who is advertising to build gear for Avids and such. 

Good luck in your search. 

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Posted

Or, the $3K gives you other options - Take your choice.  EDMO

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Posted

Build your own.

WIN_20171203_125052.JPG

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Posted

Anything I built would either double the weight of the aircraft or fall off!  :)

 

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Posted

Build your own.

WIN_20171203_125052.JPG

how much do those shocks run?

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Posted

Build your own.

WIN_20171203_125052.JPG

how much do those shocks run?

Moreover, how much more does this gear weigh than the original?

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Posted

The shocks cost $249 each and weigh 7.8 pounds the hole gear weigh about 45lbs.I plane on building litter ones after testing to see what I can shave and get away with

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Posted (edited)

The shocks cost $249 each and weigh 7.8 pounds the hole gear weigh about 45lbs.I plane on building litter ones after testing to see what I can shave and get away with

So, for somewhere around $800 or less, you could build your own set, not counting wheels, etc. - Add on another $700 for labor and profit and sell for $1500? - Sounds good.  EDMO

Edited by EDMO
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Posted

The shocks cost $249 each and weigh 7.8 pounds the hole gear weigh about 45lbs.I plane on building litter ones after testing to see what I can shave and get away with

So, for somewhere around $800 or less, you could build your own set, not counting wheels, etc. - Add on another $700 for labor and profit and sell for $1500? - Sounds good.  EDMO

Needs testing. 

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Posted (edited)

Jared, keep after it.  That is very promising and if you can develop a proven set up that more of less bolts on to the standard gear mounts, you will have a lot of folks interested.

If you look at the Beringer gear, they have a brace leg that runs from the axle area back to the fuselage (probably to a collector point where the lift strut attaches).  If I remember right, they have ball ends on this brace.  I think you will find this to be essential to take the horizontal loads.

Edited by SuberAvid

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Posted

ditto!

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Posted

Jared, keep after it.  That is very promising and if you can develop a proven set up that more of less bolts on to the standard gear mounts, you will have a lot of folks interested.

If you look at the Beringer gear, they have a brace leg that runs from the axle area back to the fuselage (probably to a collector point where the lift strut attaches).  If I remember right, they have ball ends on this brace.  I think you will find this to be essential to take the horizontal loads.

I under stand what you are saying is when landing and braking the gear could go aft? To do what Beringer does I would have to omit the rear leg , or it would bind. Again I am amazed how much lateral force the groove gear can take with a little clamp holding it to the fuse, think of that load.:rolleyes:

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Posted

That's why I reinforced the truss under the door, above the gear mount, in my plane.

 

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Posted

Good point Jared about the grove gear mount.  My concern with your gear was the long leg carrying the wheel, and the rearward forces pushing against it when it hits a bump or something.  Being that it's long and not real wide where it attaches to the plane.  I wondered if it was attached to the rear lift strut carry through, it would have less leverage against it, but you can only make it so big also.  Testing will prove it out.  I do think I would make up a trailer frame to mount it to so if the gear fails when you are testing it, you don't hurt your fuselage.  But like you said, the grove is a lot narrower, so maybe yours will be just fine.  JImChuk

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Posted (edited)

Good point Jared about the grove gear mount.  My concern with your gear was the long leg carrying the wheel, and the rearward forces pushing against it when it hits a bump or something.  Being that it's long and not real wide where it attaches to the plane.  I wondered if it was attached to the rear lift strut carry through, it would have less leverage against it, but you can only make it so big also.  Testing will prove it out.  I do think I would make up a trailer frame to mount it to so if the gear fails when you are testing it, you don't hurt your fuselage.  But like you said, the grove is a lot narrower, so maybe yours will be just fine.  JImChuk

Look at Cessna spring gears - Same narrow attach point on each side and not one piece like Grove.   I think the Grove is a lot stronger in rear bending resistance from one side to the other because the heavy center portion shares the load.   EDMO

Edited by EDMO

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Posted

I have thought of going back to the float fitting center for just that reason,but trying to shave weight. Maybe on the fourth set. I have thought of offering them up to someone willing to test, because I am so far out.

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Posted

Mounting the gear on a trailer for testing is the best way so you don't risk your plane,  A friend up here who makes a lot of carbon fiber parts for cubs (Carbon Concepts) tested his ski designs that way pulling the sled behind a snow machine and wing slats mounted to his pickup going down the freeway.  You can test it over a variety of bumps and holes to see what point they fail and not risk anything else; plus get good video of the movement.

I got to thinking about the drag strut and it would have to attach along the hinge line to keep it from binding.

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