Replacement rotary valve hose

16 posts in this topic

Posted

The hoses to and from my rotary valve are very hard and look to be oversize from their original configuration. Have you guys changed yours out with something locally bought? The price of the hose from a Rotax parts supplier is ridicules. 

Thanks

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Posted

I've used clear plastic tubing bought locally.  Worked good, and also you can see the air bubbles in it if you have any.  JImChuk

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Posted

The hoses to and from my rotary valve are very hard and look to be oversize from their original configuration. Have you guys changed yours out with something locally bought? The price of the hose from a Rotax parts supplier is ridicules. 

Thanks

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Posted (edited)

I use fuel hose on mine.  I have seen reinforced nylon hose used as well.  Bear perkins sells some good hose at a reasonable price and is a great guy to deal with!

:BC:

 

Edited by akflyer
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Posted

Thank you

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Posted

I'm in the same position NorthIdahoAvidflyer, I'm going hose shopping this weekend and I'll let you know what I come up with. The ID seems to be close to 5/16" and I like Jim's idea of clear hose. Hearing Leni's story of toasting a rotary valve shaft due to oil starvation was a good cautionary tale of making sure the cavity is all bled and full of oil.

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Posted

I have bought from Bear. Great people to deal with. Thank you

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Posted

Please do. I’ll look around too. I think if you attached two new hoses and prefilled the lines  before you attach them to the reservoir it should be fine. Anyone have a procedure they use to assure the system does not get air in the system?

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Posted (edited)

Whoops, I posted thinking about the injection pump.  There's a bleeder on the far side of the engine you should open up to purge the lines.  Shouldn't have to pre fill.

Edited by Av8r_Sed
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Posted

I believe this is less critical on the Kitfox with a plugs up engine than an Avid with plugs down, but I always filled directly into the lower hose and as the engine cavity fills up, the air is pushed out the upper hose fitting.  Bleed them also just to be sure, but I've never got any air out when I filled at the top of the hose going to the lower fitting.  After both hoses are full of oil, I hook the hose back on to the little bottle.  JImChuk

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Posted

I used reinforced clear line from Lowe’s that’s used on the sprayer hose of a kitchen sink. They sell it in bulk.

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Posted

I went to Lowes and found what you mentioned C5Engineer. It's a 3/8" ID hose but I think it'll work great, it's in 10' bulk at around $10. Also they had 1/8" and 3/32" clear orangish colored hose labeled "Mini-fuel" so I'll be using the 1/8" line for my primer and carb lines. Lowes had an all around great selection of clear hoses. I went to NAPA for my 1/4" and 5/16" Gates fuel hoses as well as 1" Gates radiator hose. It was a successful day for hose shopping and now I got all new rubber for my airplane.

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Posted

With the clear hose on the inverted motor you get a warm fuzzy when bleeding the rotary valve when you see the bubbles go up the line.

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Posted

Joey what’s the sequence for bleeding the rotary valve?

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Posted

Fill the resiovior full and get the tail as high as you can. Try to touch the spinner on the floor 

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Posted

don't forget the bleed screw on the top or you will hate yourself about 15 minutes into the break In run...  I also used a turkey baster with a length of hose on it that I shoved down into the RV tank inside the hose that comes off the top side of the engine (bottom of case if inverted) and sucked the oil through to assure no bubbles were hiding in the cavity.. Then the tail in the air spinner on the ground for about 10 minutes to really make sure all the air had migrated out of the cavity.   Yes I was a bit anal about bleeding it on round 2.

:BC:

 

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