New Rotax 670 Install

34 posts in this topic

Posted

Check the airworthiness.  Mine says rotax all on it.  Therefore, I can put any rotax engine on it I want to.. Going back to phase 1 is your call but I don't know of anyone else who has bothered with it.  Gotta love the world of experimental :)

I am very interested in your flight reports with the 670.

:BC:

 

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Posted

Congrats on Retirement!  Glad to see your getting some time to get back to the Avid.  I believe there is quite a few of us patiently waiting some true results with the 670.  Or maybe not so patiently! ;)

Great to hear first runs have went well!

Wish you the Best on your Test Flights....Again looking forward to some Great Results!  Cheers Randy 

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Posted

Check the airworthiness.  Mine says rotax all on it.  Therefore, I can put any rotax engine on it I want to.. Going back to phase 1 is your call but I don't know of anyone else who has bothered with it.  Gotta love the world of experimental :)

I am very interested in your flight reports with the 670.

:BC:

 

Yes, if it were just the engine, I'd agree, but the prop and the gear are also considered 'major changes". I called the FSDO, they said just log the changes, reenter phase 1 for 5 hours, then log the completion with the magic words. No inspection or paperwork.

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Posted

That doesn't look like the standard 670 muffler? Are you gonna try it with the 582 muffler?

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Posted

That doesn't look like the standard 670 muffler? Are you gonna try it with the 582 muffler?

That is the 670 muffler and exhaust system made by Mike Hair and recommended by Ron Davis (Rotax Rick, who did the engine), it is bigger than the 582. I'll let you know how it works.

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Posted

Serious ground runs today, and I installed the belly radiator that has been on my hangar shelf for 2 years. Yesterday I went to over temp 180 degrees in about 5 to 6 minutes of ground run (OAT 87 degrees, cowlings off). With the belly radiator I ran for 20 minutes today and the temp stabilized after about 12 minutes at 165 or so.

To support the radiator, I used 2 U-Bolts thru the cockpit floor, hooking over the diagonals that go from the center aft to the sidewall. I put the bolt thru the plywood, below the carpet where it didn't interfere at all. I used a cut-away rectangular channel mounted to the U-bolts, and then bolted the radiator to the channel. The channel is about 2" in depth, pulling the radiator down a bit for cleaner air (yes, and more drag). Silicon tubing connected the radiator to the pump output, and the return goes to the right nose radiator.

I set the warp drive to 15 degrees of pitch at the tip, and today ran to full throttle in the chocks, and got 5970 RPM, which is close enough for me to take it to flight. EGT and fuel flow are working fine, so I should get good performance data for the group.High speed taxi tomorrow, if the winds behave.

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Posted

There is no question about it if you want to run any sort of cooling devices under the cowl you need to have the cowl installed or you will hit the red line soon. My Jabiru uses cooling ducts to cool the heads. I tried to run it with the cowl off thinking the air from the prop would cool that engine. Ha Not a chance with in 5 minutes My head temps were close to red line. Installed the cowl and they stay nice and cool.

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Posted

TJay, yes without cowlings a Jabiru will overheat because it is air cooled and the cowls guide the air over the cooling fins. A Rotax 2 stroke is water cooled, a whole different beast. 

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Posted

It may be a different beast, but directing airflow into the radiator is key.  Mine will quickly overheat without the cowl on as well.

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