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Cross-shaft gearbox leak

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Posted

Hi guys,

My greyhead 582 has begun to leak oil, apparently out of the cross-shaft gearbox, as the level keeps going down in the little reservoir, even with the plane sitting in the garage.  This happens over the course of several days.  I am inclined to continue flying the plane locally, keeping close tabs on the oil level.  Is this a dumb idea?  That gearbox is deep within the engine, and I imagine a near-complete teardown would be required in order to renew the seals.  Ergo question #2:  Who in WA or OR works on these engines?  Not too many snowmachine shops down here, I reckon.  Thanks, Turbo

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Posted

I wouldn’t keep flying it. Oil and coolant mix when that seal goes and it’s a brass Gear. Catastrophic failure if it goes dry. 

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Posted

Reading up, I have gained the impression that replacing the two seals on the crankshaft essentially mandate a new or rebuilt crank, which is expensive.  If it's the seals on the valve shaft, I may see either nothing, or brown oil goo/oil foam forming in my cooling system, depending on which seal has the issue.  So far, no goo.  I'll keep an eye on that, too.  Goo is clearly a non-starter.  Thanks for the input, Joey.  Looks like I've got some expenses on the horizon.

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Posted

I had the same issue Turbo.  The previous owner/builder had stored the aircraft for 12 yrs before I bought it from him, 10 yrs into the storage, he pulled the motor (260 TT), sent it out to overhaul (somebody in MI).  When I got the plane, said 582 came with it pickled in a box.  I ran it on the ground for several hours after hanging it when the injector reservoir started pissing out oil.  Those lil seals have a finite life whether in use or not.  I wound up shipping the motor off to Rotax Rick in FL who did me a fine job on a total overhaul which included a few updates with respect to crank balancer and pistons.  W/shipping, I was only out $1800 (several yrs ago) and felt it well worth it especially when you contrast to the expense of something like a 912 or normal cat motor.  The 582 works for my limited flying budget in that regard.  Good luck and keep us appraised.

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Posted (edited)

Just realized my leakage problem is the hoses!  Oil drips appear on firewall and below on muffler.  No brown goo in coolant. Tygon tubes look wet, with drop hanging from low point. Whew!  Now, to replace hoses.  So now, gents, some questions!

1.  Is ordinary Tygon, vinyl tubing from hardware store o.k. for this?   What size?

2.  What is best procedure for re-filling the gearbox on inverted engine?  (Connect new tubes to engine, loosen plug on exhaust side of engine, fill from lower hose until oil comes out of plug, close plug, fill upper tube & connect to reservoir, use turkey baster on lower tube to chase any bubbles out of upper line to reservoir, fill lower line & connect to reservoir, fill reservoir...?)

I want to make sure I've got this right, as I understand not doing so has dire consequences!  Thanks in advance...Turbo

Edited by Turbo

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Posted

I've used the clear hardware store stuff.  1/2" ID if memory is right.  and you are right on item # 2 to fill from lower hose.  I put next size hose over the hose hooked to the engine, and ran it maybe 12" above the resivoir bottle.  Fill that line until oil comes out the upper fitting, goes up the hose till it gets to the bottle.  Re hook the other hose to the bottle, maybe tip the plane on its nose to see if any air bubbles come out of the engine.  Fill bottle to mark, and should be good to go.  The 582 has a bleed screw, but I've never saw any air come out of it if I fill as described above.  Don't think the 532 has the bleed screw.  JImChuk 

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Posted

Thanks, JimChuk.  Your procedure sounds both simpler and less messy than mine!  Does tilting the plane nose-down liberate air internally stuck in a high place in the gearbox cavity?

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Posted

When you say gearbox, I right away think of the thing the prop bolts to and such, but I know you don't mean that.   Yes I would say tilting the plane will help get air out that might other wise be trapped.  Filling like I described will get most of the air out, and if just a tiny bit is left, it probably doesn't matter, but if it all comes out, so much the better.  JImChuk

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Posted (edited)

Got the old hoses off.  Not so tough.  1/2" seems too easy a fit, but I had just enough 7/16" ID tubing to do the job.  The upper tube fitting to engine is fiendishly difficult to get on, what with the motor mount, carbs, and fuel pump in the way.  Moved the latter two and it still was very difficult!  Finally got there, then had Sr. moment and forgot which tube goes to which side of the reservoir!  I think the lower one goes to the side opposite the cap on the reservoir.  At least that's what my pics indicate.  If I've got this wrong, please let me know!  

Hey, I flew for 3rd time, made better landings, and the fear factor finally dissolved and I had fun!  Now to start planning some XC flights, put the OI system back on (Thanks to NorthIdahoAvidFlyer), rig up  Cowlove-style HAC system, etc. etc..  Yee-Haw!

Edited by Turbo
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Posted

replacing the RV shaft seals does not mean replacing the crank by any stretch of the imagination.  You replace the seals when you "reseal" the engine after your 5 yr period and don't replace parts that do not need replaced.  The 582 ix actually a very easy engine to work on and reseal.  The manual is posted on this site and the video deep inside your rotax is great for the first time guy to watch and see what needs to be done. 

Glad it was just a hose leaking.

Make double damn sure you get all the air out of the RV cavity.  If you don't the brass gear will be toasted in about 15 minutes and the pilot cooling fan will stop turning.  Been there done that.  Use the bleed screw, fill like Jim C said and raise the tail over your head and hold for a bit to see if any bubble show up in the hoses.

:BC:

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