Buying and towing a KF1

[Willja67 144]

Hey everyone, 

First post here.  I'm very seriously considering buying a KF1 that I've found. Haven't seen it in person yet but if i were to buy it i would have to tow it on the included trailer about 800 miles to get it home.  Other than avoiding gawking idiot's on the road that might kamikaze into me because i distracted them what are some of the biggest things that i would need to prepare for to avoid damage to the plane? Would the rudder or elevators need to be totally immobilized beyond whatever mechanism usually locks the control surfaces? Or the flaperons for that matter?  I'm hoping for no rain on the way back since with the wings folded the turtle deck is open, but how bad is it if it does get wet?

 

Also what are some things to look for when buying a kitfox? I've read about the flaperon mounts on the ends of the ribs breaking, any other big ones that i should look for? Btw it has a rotax 532 in it and only about 75 hrs total time airframe and engine, was completed about 6 years ago and always hangared, with no damage history. Also it's in annual till July next year and airworthy (according to the builder/ owner).

Anyway thanks in advance for any answers  

 

Will A.

Edited 23 Aug 2018 by Willja67
Added additional info

[1avidflyer 1983]

Welcome to our group first of all.  As far as trailering goes, you for sure want to use gust locks on the tail feathers.  1x4 boards with 1" foam on them works good.  DONT rely on just tying the joy stick or something.  You will regret it later. I've sold 2 elevators to people who trailered without gust locks on the elevator.  Another thing is tie the flaperons together.  Once in a while the rod holding the wing to the tail comes undone and the wing swings out.  Gets ugly after that.  Also, support the tail of the plane rather than just letting it ride on the tailwheel.  With the wings folded, there is way more weight on the tailwheel than it was designed to take when you add in bumps on a road.   If you can stick to secondary roads that will help as well.  When a semi passed you going 80 mph, you will see what I mean.  Here is a pic of how I supported the tail on a Kitfox 4 that I hauled 1500 miles from Texas to Mn.  One last thing, in the second picture you see a black rod going from the front of the wing to the lift strut bracket.  That keeps the wing from flopping up and down on bumps.  Very important to have something there as well.  You could make something up from some 1" thin wall steel conduit if need be.   JImChuk

[Willja67 144]

Thanks Jim that's good info. Brings up the question of how fast is too fast?

[1avidflyer 1983]

I hated to go over 60.  JImChuk

[Willja67 144]

Just out of curiosity why are the trailers set up to tow the aircraft backwards? I understand that loading is a issue but there are ways around that. Just seems to me that there are a few issues such as the wings swinging out and elevators being bent the wrong way that would be mitigated to some extent if the plane was towed nose first. 

Edited 24 Aug 2018 by Willja67

[Willja67 144]

Jim, 

The money just came through and I'm arranging a time to go see the plane so that brace holding the tail and the one from the bottom of the lift struts to the front spar just became really important.  My biggest question on the tail one is if there is usually a hole drilled through the fuselage there to run that bolt through?  And if not, what then?

On the wing brace how do you connect the ends of that steel conduit to the plane?

[TJay 1041]

There will be a hole there. The owner of the plane should know how to help you brace the wings. If he doesn't he should be flying a certified plane. Hope you like it I love my Model 1.

[1avidflyer 1983]

Like TJay says, there is a place to mount the wing brace arms and the wing hold back arms in place.  There is a tab on the lift strut bracket for bolting the wing brace to, and a short flattened tube on both sides of the fuselage to tie the wings back to.  Maybe I can get a couple of pictures today.  JImChuk

[Willja67 144]

Hope you like it I love my Model 1.

Thanks TJ that's really good to hear. Had 1 guy ( who happens to be a Rans dealer) Warn me away from model 1s  said not to look at anything less than a KF3. 

Like TJay says, there is a place to mount the wing brace arms and the wing hold back arms in place.  There is a tab on the lift strut bracket for bolting the wing brace to, and a short flattened tube on both sides of the fuselage to tie the wings back to.  Maybe I can get a couple of pictures today.  JImChuk

I'd greatly appreciate that Jim.

[1avidflyer 1983]

Forgot to get the pictures today, and just now I remembered I had some of my Kitfox 1 so I'll post them now.  JImChuk

 

[Willja67 144]

Thanks Jim i appreciate that. Received a message from the seller/ builder and he has all of these provisions already for the plane but going forearmed with knowledge is always a good thing.  With any luck this time next week i'll be the proud new owner of a shiny low hours KF1. I'll be on pins and needles the whole drive back to Utah from California though, and my brother just warned me the Sierra Nevada passes could get snowed over and closed even this time of year. So fingers crossed. 

[Allen Sutphin 705]

Every experimental I've ever built or owned, somebody has always told me to "leave that model alone". And I've flown every one of them with no problems. Like I said previously, the model 1,2 or 3 is probably the better STOL airframe. Every kit provider wants you to buy the one they're selling because its the greatest thing since canned corn. Next year, their new model is better yet. And it continues.

[Willja67 144]

Every experimental I've ever built or owned, somebody has always told me to "leave that model alone". And I've flown every one of them with no problems. Like I said previously, the model 1,2 or 3 is probably the better STOL airframe. Every kit provider wants you to buy the one they're selling because its the greatest thing since canned corn. Next year, their new model is better yet. And it continues.

That was pretty much my assessment.  I compared the Rans dealer with airplanes to my boss and trucks.  Last year i bought an 06 Ram with nearly 200k on it but in excellent condition.  It has the diesel and 6 speed manual in it which means it should have a lot of life in it.  There are a few small things wrong with it but i could afford it.  My boss would have cut a salesman off as son as he said anything but brand new, wouldn't even think of considering it. This Rans dealer had 2 shiny new planes with perfect paint and glass panels in his hangar and I'm sure doesn't comprehend my budget limitations.  If it means i have a plane to fly i'll put up with an older design and be happy with it. 

[Allen Sutphin 705]

"Older" really doesn't apply to airplanes.  Some of the best out there are "older" by anyone's standards. Your Kitfox model 1 is just as good as a 2, or 3, or 4 and so on. Just different limitations for each.  Your model 1 or my 2 can be rebuilt many times over and still carry on.  And you'll have just as much fun with a whole lot more money left in your pocket at the end of the day.  If it gets your tail in the air, no matter what it is, you're welcome here! As a matter of fact, some refer to me as "older". I prefer "seasoned".

[Bandit 286]

Just out of curiosity why are the trailers set up to tow the aircraft backwards? I understand that loading is a issue but there are ways around that. Just seems to me that there are a few issues such as the wings swinging out and elevators being bent the wrong way that would be mitigated to some extent if the plane was towed nose first. 

I think a lot of people convert old boat trailers. This makes it easier to put the main gear ramp towards the back of the trailer rather than put a main gear ramp running from the back towards the front. I built mine to tow facing forward.

Edited 28 Aug 2018 by Bandit

[Allen Sutphin 705]

Nice airplane, willing to share any info on it? Like engine, empty weight, performance? etc.

[Bandit 286]

SkyRaider 1. 447 rotax. Really a nice flying airplane. Owned it about 3 years. Sold it last summer and bought a Champ.

[wypaul 448]

One caution about pulling the plane facing forward that I am sure Bandit addressed, be sure to plug the end of the spars and the wing without tanks to avoid pressuring up the under cambered wing and pulling the fabric loose especially if the wing is not rib stitched...

[Bandit 286]

I did that. If you enlarge the picture you can see I duct taped the end of the spar.

[Willja67 144]

Well i gone and done it now!  I'm officially an airplane owner, just got back to Utah from Cali with the kitfox. It survived fairly well but the straps holding the mains chafed some paint and fabric. Also one of the flaperons rubbed on the vertical stab a little but it had already done that at some time in the past. Seems like a solid little plane. 

[1avidflyer 1983]

Congratulations!  I can see your grin from here.  Have fun with it, and give us some flight reports.  They are a fun plane!  JImChuk

[MnAvidFlyer 34]

Congratulations on your first airplane! It is an exciting time. Check it over good and Fly safe!

Brooks

[Willja67 144]

Thanks guys I'm really looking forward to it. The last entry in my logbook was 4 years ago and it was a bfr so gotta get current again and need to brush up on tailwheel as well.  Only have 13 hrs of that. But now that I've got my own plane I've got incentive to get back in a cockpit.  

 

On another note i haven't had time to review all the paperwork that came with the plane but it seems written procedures for operating the engine (rotax 532) are lacking.  Having read about the need for strict following of certain procedures i want make up a good checklist before i even start taxiing it around. I've already read a few posts on the subject but if anyone can point me to a definitive source it would be appreciated.  The checklist gives warmup requirements but that's about it.

 

Will also have to rejet for the higher altitude ( about 4500 msl here vs sea level where it came from). 

 

Also thinking about how to put the plane on a diet.  Only has a useful load of 382 lbs.  Has electric start a 6 gallon wing tank and upholstery kit that i understand are options that add weight but don't think are removable except perhaps the upholstery kit.  The last owner said there's probably about 15-20lbs extra of paint on it and a new cover job isn't in the budget for awhile.  The only things i can think of to eliminate are the backup altimeter and ASI ( it has a Garmin G5). So any ideas about where to look to remove weight are welcome.  

Edited 2 Sep 2018 by Willja67

[1avidflyer 1983]

Here is some good info on the Rotax engine and how to take care of it.  JImChuk

https://www.cps-parts.com/catalog/rtxpages/articles.php
 

[MnAvidFlyer 34]

My Avid flyer model A had around 10 lbs of extra wire in it. I ended up cutting it all out and started over. I turned a complicated mess into a simple harness.

Insted of running a wire for every load, I ran a power and a ground to a terminal block under the panel. The panel wires are around 6" long now insted of 6'.

Brooks