Soggy Plugs

40 posts in this topic

Posted (edited)

Hi Y'all,

Every time I go to fly my Avid I have to pull a couple of plugs, then shake and wipe away excess oil, then reinstall, otherwise I can't easily get the engine to start.  I have a grey head 582, and am still burning down my premix before reinstalling the OI system.  Do we all share this misery?  Will the lower oil flow when idling with the OI system mitigate this problem?  I have the pull starter, so really feel it when the engine won't start.  BTW, I shut down by turning the fuel valve to off, then waiting the couple of minutes for the engine to shudder to a stop.

Edited by Turbo

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Posted

Hi Turbo! What plugs are you using? If they dont have a “P” in the name replace them with the P version of the same plugs. P stand for protruding and the longer plug will prevent the oil from accumulating in the plug. This normally does the trick as at least one of the plugs remain usable.

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Posted

Try Iridium plugs. BR8EIX... couple more bucks a plug but alleviated my starting probs. Other than that....FLY more often!

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Posted (edited)

The difference between P (protruding) and regular plugs. It solved the oil in plugs problem for me. 

bpr9es_spark_plug_vs_br9es.thumb.jpg.574

(yes, it is a centimeter scale, not inch..)

Edited by FredStork
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Posted

The same for me, I installed on each cylinder head a standard plug and a "P" plug, that solved the starting problems on my GH 582

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Posted

Thank you. That is a great tip Fred. I called my local auto parks store and they stock them. I'm going to check if they have a P plug in the Iridium also. 

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Posted (edited)

Thanks, guys!  True, I don't fly often enough!  Last time up it felt chilly!  Does NGK  make a BR8ES-P plug?   I'm so glad there's a simple answer out there!  I will definitely pursue this.  Thanks, Fred, for going the extra  mile  (or couple of km).

Edited by Turbo

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Posted

You could be flooding it. The only time my 503 started hard is when the stator went bad. After the new one was installed it started in 1-3 pulls if primed right.

 

 

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Posted

Thanks, guys!  True, I don't fly often enough!  Last time up it felt chilly!  Does NGK  make a BR8ES-P plug?   I'm so glad there's a simple answer out there!  I will definitely pursue this.  Thanks, Fred, for going the extra  mile  (or couple of km).

Just type NGK BPR8ES in Google... 

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Posted

Thanks, guys!  True, I don't fly often enough!  Last time up it felt chilly!  Does NGK  make a BR8ES-P plug?   I'm so glad there's a simple answer out there!  I will definitely pursue this.  Thanks, Fred, for going the extra  mile  (or couple of km).

Just type NGK BPR8ES in Google... 

I could only find these locally in a screw on top. No one had a solid top. Not sure if they make them in a solid top. Fred did you find then in a Solid or use the screw on tops?

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Posted (edited)

I think this is what you want... 1.99 each, in stock and same day shipping... with solid terminal (see the specs)

https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=30366 

I would order at least 8...

Edited by FredStork
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Posted

NGK 93427 BPR8ES-6 

Part #NGK93427

https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=30366 

I checked prices and its cheaper to buy them direct from NGK. Amazon was $18 and NGK was $13 for 4 plugs shipped. I am going to ask my local parts store if they can order them for me and see is what they will charge. A guy might get a beak on the shipping. I'll let you know.

Thank you again Fred for the great tip.

 

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Posted

The NGK BR8ES plugs are listed as having 5kOhm resistence.  The BPR8ES  plugs show up as copper core.  Should I expect a hit on radio communications?

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Posted

The BPR8ES are also 5 Ohm as listed in the Spec section in the provided link. 

 

plugspec.thumb.PNG.216a9f92355824f18ff4d

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Posted

Thanks, Vance!  I was trying to validate this.  Measured old BR8ES at 4.7kOhm.  Both say they have copper core.  Both have "R" on one side of the insulator.  

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Posted

The NGK BR8ES plugs are listed as having 5kOhm resistence.  The BPR8ES  plugs show up as copper core.  Should I expect a hit on radio communications?

The "R" stands for Resistance, 5k ohm appears to be the standard

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Posted

Turbo. Looks like I will not be needing these plugs I ordered. I ordered metal shielded caps and they take the screw top caps. If you want them I will send the to you via snail mail. 

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Posted

Appreciate the offer, Vance.  Maybe there is a screw-top NGK plug  BPR8E (or something) that would work with those caps.  Have you ordered the new plugs yet?  I went to a shop that sells chainsaws and offroad vehicles and bought their last 2 BPR8ES solid-top plugs.  Paid too much, but had a hard time finding them in the auto parts stores.  I'm about 4 gallons of premix away from putting on your OI pump!  Again thanks for that!

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Posted

Yes I can find the BPR8ES screw tops here at Oreilly Auto Parts. I had already orderd the solid top ones so if you want them I paid $13 for 4 of them to my door.  PM me your address and I’ll throw them in the mail to you once they arrive. We can catch up later. If you don’t want them I’ll offer them up here to whoever wants a set  

Good to here the pump will go to good use. 

 

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Posted (edited)

I reckon a pair of extras wouldn't hurt!  I'll send you a check.    Think I still have your addy.

I'll text you mine.

Edited by Turbo

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Posted

Flew the bird a couple of days ago, with a pair of the extended plugs in the aft-plug position.  Startup was a breeze!  Thanks again to all who shared the solution!

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Posted

I installed a set too and they are working good. 

Turbo, Those other plugs came but I received an email stating that I should check the order, I checked the order and they sent me the wrong plugs. I have an email back out to then asking what The would like me to do. I'll let you know when they rectify the order.  

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Posted

hi  turbo i see you have pull start, do you have the pull inside cockpit? how does it feel ? i'm building with pull start choice

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Posted

Hi Manu,

My plane has a pulley allowing the pull-starter to be operated from inside.

With this set-up it's easy to do the pull-start while seated inside the cabin.   At first I thought I had to do it from outside, but not so!  It's much easier with shoulder belt slipped down; usually I un-clip the seat belt for the start.  I push with my foot against those two slanted tubes in between the rudder pedal sets.  Effecting a re-start while flying could be challenging, though - not enough hands to fly the plane too.  Maybe if I had a better trim setup...  I'll be keen to find out how well your trim tab works.

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Posted (edited)

Manu, 

It occurred to me that your airframe may not have the pully and rope guide mounts welded on.  Here is a picture of mine.  They are welded on to the V-strut.

 

20181015_163926.jpg

Edited by Turbo
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