Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

How to Pop In a New Starter


8 posts in this topic

Posted (edited)

My starter is acting up, and I wanted to troubleshoot it. But for an Avid Mk IV, it is all the way in back, in its little cubby hole, and sure looked like I had to pull the entire engine to get at it. But what I did instead was cut a hole in the back side of that cubby hole, and open up a flap door that gives me access to the whole starter. An hour after I started the job, I had the starter in my hand. I could have drilled out the rivets, but there is so little room back there, and I don't have an angle-head drill, so a quick job with my 3" cutoff tool did the trick. When I finish with my trouble shooting, I intend to clap a new piece of sheet steel on the hole and rivet it in. There is a ground wire that runs from the forward face bolt to the starter bell housing (#13 in the parts diagram)  that I had to cut since the bolt is almost impossible to get to even with the new hole. I will re-run the grounding wire on re-assembly, probably to a more accessible bolt on the engine case. The photo of the hole is taken from the pilot's knee position looking up toward the firewall.

starter parts.jpg

firewall photo.jpg

IMG_1644.jpg

Edited by nlappos
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

When I was on floats and my starter went out I did the same thing.  I put a few tabs on the outside of the backing plate at used screws to put it back on.  In the past on wheels I had pulled the engine to change it.  

:BC:

 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

I screwed up,  thought you wanted dark gray, light gray with foam backing is gone  to be a bigger package and heavier ,

so back to shipping store

 most most important! Don't forget to leave ..040 between starter flange and starter cover, see attached

1545742816924-456167859.jpg

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Very good reminder.  The aluminum case will crack in short order if the starter is tightened up all the way.  Been there and done that.  JImChuk

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Oh and if anyone needs new orings for the starter (they are funky metric sizes) I have a few sets of them.  I ordered them from a manufacture and had to buy bulk so I have enough to do 5 or 6 sets for the price of what rotax wanted for 1 set.

:BC:

 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Good advice. Those multiple rubber rings that act as standoffs on the mounting bolts (#17 on the parts diagram) also help isolate the starter from the engine, I bet there is a vibration mode where the starter whips back and forth at a certain rpm, which asks for the compliance so no metal is fatigued as the starter does the limbo rock.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Rotax 582 Replacement starter choices:

Cheapest (same part number) , $76!!  https://www.snowmobilepartsstartersparts1982.info/?phrase=995430&brand=search

What I bought, $195  https://www.ebay.com/itm/233052881422

Aircraft Spruce, $262  https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/ep/starters_xrotax/gplheavydutystrtrmtr.php

Rotax Pricing $903 (but this is a full kit with housing and gear, not a fair comparison)  https://www.air-techinc.com/product_detail.php?pid=2442

Edited by nlappos
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

new starter in, and the door closed on the hole.

IMG_1693sm.jpg

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0