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Finalizing a deal on an Avid Model C

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Posted

Hello everyone, I am in the process of finalizing a deal on an Avid Flyer Model C. It was constucted in the 90's, the engine has 44.5 hours total time on it (Rotax 532) and the airframe was 4.5 hours total time on it. It has been in heated storage everyday of its life except the two days it was at an airfield in 2002. This machine is in, incredible condition, and I'm wondering before finalizing a deal on it on Feb 20 - what things should I know. 

- For example I have heard that the fibreglass tanks (from forums online) if not constructed with Ethanol resistant resin, are prone to leaking? What resin came with the initial kits? Was it Ethanol resistant? Or was that not an option back in the 90's

- What else should I ask before signing on the dotted line?

- I have a BRP/Rotax certified factory mechanic that knows the engine well since the 90's, he is going to tear it down and rebuild what needs to be done. So I really don't have a lot of fear in the engine. ( Expect it to be replace plugs, gaskets, check all seals and ignitions, check crank, check crank seals, pull a piston, look at the rings, check all bearings etc... ( I don't expect there to be much problems, but all gaskets for the engine and gearbox will be replaced to make servicable.

- The bungee will be replaced for the gear just due to sheer caution about the age. The wheels are off the ground, the axles are sitting on blocks, so the wheels are not in contact with the ground for over 15 years.

- The plane has been under plastic sheeting now for 15 years, the dust on the plastic is crazy. The plane is like new. I am just looking for what I should ask from fellow Avid Flyer Model C owners that know what to ask / what to look for....

Thanks!

Mike (krazycanuck2011)

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Posted (edited)

Welcome to the group.  I would say if you don't use ethanol added fuel, probably the tanks will be fine.  You could clean them and coat them with a tank sealer like KBS coatings perhaps.  I've used it several times and it seemed to work good.   Of course a thorough inspection of the entire plane is a good idea.  Check that the rib tails are in good condition, although if it's been inside all this time, that is probably not a problem.  Make sure the paper work is in order of course.   JImChuk

PS  we love pictures

Edited by 1avidflyer

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Posted

Thanks for that 1avidflyer - I will take a look at the ribs in the horizontal stab and vertical fin ( as much as you can with fingers... - fabric is on ) - I am making sure the paperwork is in order for sure. Regarding the fuel, here in Canada we have Octane 87, Octane 89, Octane 91 - I cannot determine if any of these have Ethanol in them... I know when I visited the US sometimes you would see E85, but is there normally Ethanol in Octane 87, if it just says Octane 87 at the pump?

Also for a Rotax 532, what is the recommended Octane 89, 91, or 93? to mix... Also I guess while I'm totally here asking questions, what is the mix ratio?

Thx, keep in coming people, I need to know what to look for...

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Posted

I was referring to the main wing rib tails that the flaperons hinge on.  If exposed to weather and moisture, they can start to rot and that would be bad.  I always ran premium non oxygenated (no alcohol) mogas  in the 2 strokes at a 50 to 1 mix.  JImChuk

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Posted

Good to know, I was told by Mark at Avid to look over those wing rib tails as well. Is that the piece between the trailing edge of the wing and the flaperon itself? Is the trailing edge of the wing, tor just the joining section to the piece that connects the flaperon to the wing the problem child to look at? I will look at both, but is the trailing edge of the wing itself a problem child as well?

Thx

 

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Posted

My advice is to make sure you replace bungees with the mil type-1 bungees from Aircraft Spuce & Specialty.  3/8" dia is really 0.41", and it's almost 3Xas stiff as the hardware store variety!  Check travel allowed by safety cables; I advocate 5".  On my Model C  it was 2.5", and I bent my seat  tube in a hard landing!  There are posts on re-doing the bungees.  It's a bitch without first making an installation tool.  Filling in the critical seat-truss triangle with wood or something to make it more crush-proof is valuable.  Study up on flying behind a 2-stroke - it's different!  Welcome, and good luck!

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