Fuel gage in Wingtank

12 posts in this topic

Posted

Anyone installed one of the manual float fuel gauges  in a plastic wing tank. Ones like the C-170 uses among others. I am going to give it a shot. Maybe use a modified backing plate on the inside of the tank.  The poly tanks are not thick enough to thread so a backing plate will sandwich the plastic between the metal plates with a gasket. Bad thing is though, if it doesn't work, I've ruined a wing tank that is already installed. Of course I've got a spare tank on the shelf that I could ruin first. No sense in being stupid if you can't prove it now and then!

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Posted

FWIW, another approach is a fuel flow meter & totalizer.  Fuel flow data are valuable too.  This is the approach I have taken.  I'm thinking that once I have gathered enough flight data I will be able to make good estimates of speed to fly in various headwinds/tailwinds to maximize range.  I know I'm waxing a bit nerdy here, but hey, why not?

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Posted

I don't think I'll go that in depth with it on this bird. Most use a tube type sight gage or able to see the fuel level thru the root rib. Since it is a fair weather local airstrip hopper. a two hour range is plenty of range for me. Big tanks with a lot of fuel eats into the useable load and a model 2 doesn't have a lot to spare.

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Posted (edited)

Allen, I have looked into several options on how to add a site gauge to my plane. Here is the option (picture) I will go with when I do it. I really don't like not know what I have in the tanks when I get down below 1/4 of a tank. I have fiberglass tanks so I an going to install the push in rubber grommets with a little pro-seal. The kit can be purchased through Bear Perkins for $17 plus shipping. He sales power parachute supplies on-line. 

 

fuelsitegauge.PNG

Edited by NorthIdahoAvidflyer
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Posted

FWIW, another approach is a fuel flow meter & totalizer.  Fuel flow data are valuable too.

Be aware that the fuel totalizer gives you the total remaining fuel. in a 2 tank setup, the motor can run out of gas with a tank empty, and fuel remaining in the other. I learned that lesson the hard way!

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Posted

Allen, I have looked into several options on how to add a site gauge to my plane. Here is the option (picture) I will go with when I do it. I really don't like not know what I have in the tanks when I get down below 1/4 of a tank. I have fiberglass tanks so I an going to install the push in rubber grommets with a little pro-seal. The kit can be purchased through Bear Perkins for $17 plus shipping. He sales power parachute supplies on-line. 

 

fuelsitegauge.PNG

I've got those on the shelf and had thought about using them. You have to replace the grommets on occasion due to seepage. I have seen them leak but the correct hole size is important. Still those are an option.

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Posted

Vans Aircraft that sells a product similar to Pro-seal in small amounts. I've used it to seal the base of the grommets against the tank and around the grommet hole when I install the metal outlet. The stuff is amazing and will keep any weeping from happening for a long time. One 1 oz container would easily do both wings but you better be ready to get busy once you mix the stuff. It cures pretty fast. 

 

Tank sealer.PNG

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Posted

I normally use Aviation Grade Permatex form-a-gasket. It is gasoline proof and stays pliable after curing. Well, reasonably pliable, anyhow. Been using it for about 30 years but lately getting harder to find. Plastic tanks are a pain to keep from seeping anyhow. In heat or cold they will expand and contract and break any seal that is hardened. So one has to use a sealer that stays somewhat pliable its whole life.  Seems anything that works good, some do-gooders want to take it away cause it might harm me if I eat it.

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Posted

The sealer Vans sells stays firm and pliable. I have used it to install tank bungs on fiberglass and aluminum fuel tanks. Not sure how it would do on plastics but I feel it would work well. 

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Posted

I normally use Aviation Grade Permatex form-a-gasket. It is gasoline proof and stays pliable after curing. Well, reasonably pliable, anyhow. Been using it for about 30 years but lately getting harder to find. Plastic tanks are a pain to keep from seeping anyhow. In heat or cold they will expand and contract and break any seal that is hardened. So one has to use a sealer that stays somewhat pliable its whole life.  Seems anything that works good, some do-gooders want to take it away cause it might harm me if I eat it.

I have used the Permatex and I still can't keep the fittings from weeping on the plastic header tanks in my Avid or Bob's KF.  I just ordered some weld on aluminum fittings to make aluminum header tanks so hopefully we wont have to sniff gas in the cockpit anymore.

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Posted

I also went with an alum header tank. A 3.3 gal fuel cell used in sprint racing. I never really liked fiberglass, plastic or bladder tanks anyhow. Couldn't force me to change a bladder tank in a C-182 or a Beechcraft anymore. Usually left more skin and blood off my hands on the plane than what was left on my hands.

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Posted

Here is the gauge I installed:

http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/5461-fuel-sight-tube-pics-anyone/&do=findComment&comment=48407

 

I also use a boat fuel flow gauge and totalizer that works like a charm. I have the old Northstar 201 system, which is unavailable, but Lowrance make a good one that runs about $450 for gauge and sensor. My Northstar is a charm, giving me great confidence in power settings and fuel remaining.

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