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EA81 Subaru Heavy Hauler


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#1 Jim

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Posted 03 January 2011 - 06:24 AM

Any of you guys have interesting tidbits to contribute to this general topic? I'm going through the process of getting my machine back in the air.
EA81Jim

#2 akflyer

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Posted 04 January 2011 - 08:26 AM

Any of you guys have interesting tidbits to contribute to this general topic? I'm going through the process of getting my machine back in the air.


Randy is the Suby guy that is on here, I think he just got his in the air. He should see this and be able to help you out with any questions you have.

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#3 SuberAvid

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 07:22 AM

Hi Jim, welcome aboard.

I am running an EA81 on my new Avid+; I don't have a whole lot of hours on it yet but so far I really like it. My setup is a Stratus motor and redrive with RAM dual ignition distributor, mini alternator and serpentine belt for alternator and water pump, dual nose radators, I built the exhaust and used a FMP "Supertrap" type muffler; also using a 72" three blade warp drive prop. There are some pictures of mine in the Avid plus area of this forum.

What setup do you have on yours? Give us an idea what you mean by getting it back in the air?

Randy
Randy Tyler
Palmer, Alaska
Avid+ / N316DT
Subaru EA-81, IVO Medium IFA 72"

#4 Jim

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 06:49 PM

Hi Jim, welcome aboard.

I am running an EA81 on my new Avid+; I don't have a whole lot of hours on it yet but so far I really like it. My setup is a Stratus motor and redrive with RAM dual ignition distributor, mini alternator and serpentine belt for alternator and water pump, dual nose radators, I built the exhaust and used a FMP "Supertrap" type muffler; also using a 72" three blade warp drive prop. There are some pictures of mine in the Avid plus area of this forum.

What setup do you have on yours? Give us an idea what you mean by getting it back in the air?

Randy



Thanks Randy for the heads-up on your EA81. I'm not familiar with the STRATUS config, but man do I want to suck up any details on ANY Subaru powered AVID. I'm running the EA81 with the NSI reduction system. Friend of mine built it and has flown it all over the southeastern US. I've got an Ellison EFS-2 throttle body on it and have been trying to get either a rebuild kit or info as to where I may send it for a rebuild. Ellison seems to have gone the way of the DODO bird. I to am running a WARP three blade with 19 1/2 degrees of pitch in it - engine turns 5000 rpm on take-off. I've done some taxi test since purchase but need to tweek a few things before going for the glory. Just received a new battery (located in the tail end for weight and balance), some fluids, lubricants, filter, aviation hydraulic fluid (no right brake), and am awaiting the FAA to send me an application to re-register this baby (GRRR..). Engine runs fine, but feel like I need to replace the diaphram in the EFS-2 throttle body (got some time on it).
Thanks loads guy for getting back to me, got to run right now but will sure check out any pics of your machine and will get back with you to swap some data. Be well man and 'keep one foot on the ground'. Jim :flag:
EA81Jim

#5 SuberAvid

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Posted 11 January 2011 - 07:12 AM

Thanks Randy for the heads-up on your EA81. I'm not familiar with the STRATUS config, but man do I want to suck up any details on ANY Subaru powered AVID. I'm running the EA81 with the NSI reduction system. Friend of mine built it and has flown it all over the southeastern US. I've got an Ellison EFS-2 throttle body on it and have been trying to get either a rebuild kit or info as to where I may send it for a rebuild. Ellison seems to have gone the way of the DODO bird. I to am running a WARP three blade with 19 1/2 degrees of pitch in it - engine turns 5000 rpm on take-off. I've done some taxi test since purchase but need to tweek a few things before going for the glory. Just received a new battery (located in the tail end for weight and balance), some fluids, lubricants, filter, aviation hydraulic fluid (no right brake), and am awaiting the FAA to send me an application to re-register this baby (GRRR..). Engine runs fine, but feel like I need to replace the diaphram in the EFS-2 throttle body (got some time on it).
Thanks loads guy for getting back to me, got to run right now but will sure check out any pics of your machine and will get back with you to swap some data. Be well man and 'keep one foot on the ground'. Jim Posted Image



Hi Jim,

The Stratus is running dual Bing altitude compensating carbs; the same that the Rotax 912's run. They are set up to produce 100 - 105 HP. The redrive is a 2.2:1 cog belt drive.

I notice that you have a lot more pitch in your prop at 19.5 deg and you still turn higher RPM at 5000. What is your HP, what is your redrive ratio and where do you measure your prop? I only get about 4200 rpm on takeoff with 15 degrees of pitch measured at the tip.

Randy
Randy Tyler
Palmer, Alaska
Avid+ / N316DT
Subaru EA-81, IVO Medium IFA 72"

#6 Jim

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Posted 11 January 2011 - 02:53 PM

Hi Jim,

The Stratus is running dual Bing altitude compensating carbs; the same that the Rotax 912's run. They are set up to produce 100 - 105 HP. The redrive is a 2.2:1 cog belt drive.

I notice that you have a lot more pitch in your prop at 19.5 deg and you still turn higher RPM at 5000. What is your HP, what is your redrive ratio and where do you measure your prop? I only get about 4200 rpm on takeoff with 15 degrees of pitch measured at the tip.

Randy


Hey Randy,
I'm running an NSI gear drive, not exactly sure just what the final drive ratio is. It has a clutch unit that engages as soon as the engine starts. You can freel-wheel spin it in one direction and it freely spins with no friction. I'm told (got some NSI literature) that it stays locked up if the engine quits, haven't tried that out(for sure). It uses thirty weight non-detergent oil and man the exploded few in the manual shows about a million parts (give or take). I've owned three different aircraft with ground adjustable WARP DRIVE props. The first one I bought came about after I inadvertently proped off my KR-2 with chocked wheels, but FULL THROTTLE. It went straight over on it's nose and sprayed tooth picks from the two blade fixed pitch prop all over the airport (I don't recommend doing this, kids). I used a needle type protractor from a PEGASUS trike on which I also had a WARP DRIVE to set the pitch. I set it using the tip of the prop as the point of reference, about three or four inches inboard. My NSI EA81 manual showed 19 I/2 degrees as the best climb vs. cruise compromise. I'm cranking out about 100 HP with the EFS-2 throttle body (still don't have a repair/rebuild solution but trying to contact STRATUS). Don't know about the difference in rpm you and I are turning but would guess that final drive ratio would be a likely explanation. Oh yes, my engine was built with a non-standard cam also. My torque curve would likely be a little different than yours.
Thanks for the info Randy, anything I can learn or impart I'm all ears and hopefully not so much mouth. Give me a shout-out anytime ... Jim. :fishing:
EA81Jim

#7 Jim

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Posted 11 January 2011 - 03:03 PM

Hey Randy,
I'm running an NSI gear drive, not exactly sure just what the final drive ratio is. It has a clutch unit that engages as soon as the engine starts. You can freel-wheel spin it in one direction and it freely spins with no friction. I'm told (got some NSI literature) that it stays locked up if the engine quits, haven't tried that out(for sure). It uses thirty weight non-detergent oil and man the exploded few in the manual shows about a million parts (give or take). I've owned three different aircraft with ground adjustable WARP DRIVE props. The first one I bought came about after I inadvertently proped off my KR-2 with chocked wheels, but FULL THROTTLE. It went straight over on it's nose and sprayed tooth picks from the two blade fixed pitch prop all over the airport (I don't recommend doing this, kids). I used a needle type protractor from a PEGASUS trike on which I also had a WARP DRIVE to set the pitch. I set it using the tip of the prop as the point of reference, about three or four inches inboard. My NSI EA81 manual showed 19 I/2 degrees as the best climb vs. cruise compromise. I'm cranking out about 100 HP with the EFS-2 throttle body (still don't have a repair/rebuild solution but trying to contact STRATUS). Don't know about the difference in rpm you and I are turning but would guess that final drive ratio would be a likely explanation. Oh yes, my engine was built with a non-standard cam also. My torque curve would likely be a little different than yours.
Thanks for the info Randy, anything I can learn or impart I'm all ears and hopefully not so much mouth. Give me a shout-out anytime ... Jim. :fishing:


Randy, Forgot to ask - are the BINGs working out for your configuration? Are they very expensive, what about carb heat, manifold, etc. I think I had BINGs on my PEGASUS trike with ROTAX 503, don't remember. I'm sure the BINGs for the 912 are a little different. Thanks man ... Jim.
EA81Jim

#8 SuberAvid

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 08:33 AM

Jim,

Thanks for the reply, I kind of lost track where this was posted since it got covered up with later posts. The NSI clutch sounds a little different than the one Leni is running; his does not engage until it hits a certain RPM; pretty nice to be able to idle you plane without the prop spinning. How many hours does your NSI gear drive have on it and how do you like it? I would guess that our final drive ratios are the difference in RPM since both motors are supposed to turn out about 100 HP. The Stratus motors have reconfigured cams and planed heads to boost the compression to a little over 9:1 if I remember correctly; probably similar to the NSI motors. So far the Bing carbs have been running good. The are completely different than the Bings on the 2-strokes. these are like the ones on the BMW motorcycles. They aren't cheap, especially since Rotax started using them on the 912's. I bought mine a few years ago and they were $715.00 each at that time X2 since the motor has 2 of them. The intake manifolds are independent with built in water ports and thermostat placed in the connecting hose between them and the water pump. I configured my intake boxes with filters and carb heat from a heat muff on the exhaust. I spent a lot of time getting this set up to work and fit under the cowl. So far I have not experienced any carb ice so have not had to use the carb heat other than testing. I think be pulling the intake air under the cowl and with the carbs on top of he motor it is probably rare to get carb ice on these but I put carb heat on just in case I will attach a couple of pictures that show it better than I can explain it . So far I have not had to change any of the jetting on the carbs. I read a post from a guy on the Matroncs list who had guite an extensive list of jetting changes he had to do to get his EGT in the target range; under 1400 degrees. This sounds very high compared to the 1200 degree max for 2 strokes but he said he checked with NSI about the max and they said 1500 degrees and Stratus said they can take up to 1600 degrees for short periods of time. He had trouble getting his EGT's under 1400 but mine have stayed right at 1340 to 1380 degrees.

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Randy Tyler
Palmer, Alaska
Avid+ / N316DT
Subaru EA-81, IVO Medium IFA 72"

#9 Jim

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 01:04 PM

Jim,

Thanks for the reply, I kind of lost track where this was posted since it got covered up with later posts. The NSI clutch sounds a little different than the one Leni is running; his does not engage until it hits a certain RPM; pretty nice to be able to idle you plane without the prop spinning. How many hours does your NSI gear drive have on it and how do you like it? I would guess that our final drive ratios are the difference in RPM since both motors are supposed to turn out about 100 HP. The Stratus motors have reconfigured cams and planed heads to boost the compression to a little over 9:1 if I remember correctly; probably similar to the NSI motors. So far the Bing carbs have been running good. The are completely different than the Bings on the 2-strokes. these are like the ones on the BMW motorcycles. They aren't cheap, especially since Rotax started using them on the 912's. I bought mine a few years ago and they were $715.00 each at that time X2 since the motor has 2 of them. The intake manifolds are independent with built in water ports and thermostat placed in the connecting hose between them and the water pump. I configured my intake boxes with filters and carb heat from a heat muff on the exhaust. I spent a lot of time getting this set up to work and fit under the cowl. So far I have not experienced any carb ice so have not had to use the carb heat other than testing. I think be pulling the intake air under the cowl and with the carbs on top of he motor it is probably rare to get carb ice on these but I put carb heat on just in case I will attach a couple of pictures that show it better than I can explain it . So far I have not had to change any of the jetting on the carbs. I read a post from a guy on the Matroncs list who had guite an extensive list of jetting changes he had to do to get his EGT in the target range; under 1400 degrees. This sounds very high compared to the 1200 degree max for 2 strokes but he said he checked with NSI about the max and they said 1500 degrees and Stratus said they can take up to 1600 degrees for short periods of time. He had trouble getting his EGT's under 1400 but mine have stayed right at 1340 to 1380 degrees.


Randy,
Thanks for the comeback guy. I've been out of pocket lately (my 88 yr old dad fell off the porch and broke his neck). His vitals are in the green, had to do an operation and fuse three of his vertebrae. I had just left him approx 10 min before. He's a tough old bird, but I have been @ the hospital pretty much since the incident. Also am jockying with a carpenter and electrician adding two rooms to my home.
I appreciate your tech info, I had talked with Mike at STRATUS and he seemed like a nice dude. Wondered how your BINGs were, seems like they are working fine from your post. Also had wondered about carb heat and EGT (thanks for the detail). Really do love your radiator treatment (looked good along with other particulars in your photos). I've not been at full throttle with my machine yet - still in the process of getting it back airworthy. Don't anticipate any real problems doing this, just a finite time element at the moment. My engine idles at approx two grand, at three the EGTs settle in at pretty much 1000 degrees.
I've found new info for Ellison, called them and they say they will rebuild my EFS-2 throttle body (yeah!). Need to get it off and send it to them in Renton, WA as I remember. I'm not running any carb heat, I do have mixture, with the EFS. My NSI unit has 375 hours by the Hobbs meter. I think my engine should be good for about 1000 hrs before overhaul and would hope the NSI reduction unit will do the same. I'm going to stay on top of the fluids. Just from taxing and playing around with the engine/reduction unit on it's custom built trailer, the package is very smooth, nice throttle response - no complaints. It likes a fairly defined cold startup process but nothing drastic. My little bird is pretty short coupled for the power and weight, but I think I'll get the groove down. She's a little twitchy with thw weight of the battery back in the tail (26 amp POWER SONIC). Wish I had maybe another 18 to 20 inches of fuselage length and a little wider main gear but the guy who built her has flown her far and wide. Says it takes a little practice getting use to the quick rudder response. I owned a KR-2 with a full swiveling nob of a tail wheel (no steering at all below approx 20 mph except with the heel brakes). Guess I'll get this little beast down pat also. Randy, my engine appears to be 9:1 also. Most probably not that much difference in the internals of yours and mine. My valves were set to .012 lash although I've seen some evidence that the intakes can be .010 and the exhaust .014. Will probably go through the lash adjustment before flying her and re-adust as necessary. BTW Randy, I have a split MASTER switch arrangement which allows me to start the engine with battery online only. I then switch on the alternator and full electrical config. I highly recommend this to anyone in a position to employ it. Using a smaller battery is easier if you can cut down on the initial load. Perhaps most people already use this setup.
Don't know that I've covered everything you referenced but feel free to give me a shout anytime, gotta go and see about my 'Iron Man' dad. Take care guy - Jim
EA81Jim

#10 SuberAvid

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Posted 17 January 2011 - 01:20 AM

Wow Jim, it sounds like you are going through a lot. Give your dad our best and we will keep him in our thoughts and prayers for a quick recovery. I hope he does not have any paralisis; his injury would be a difficult recovery for a young person but it gets much harder as we get older. You have a lot going on, I am amazed you can keep the project moving forward but hope you ar eable to keep it up.

Your idle rpm of 2 grand makes me think the redrive is definately geared differently. Mine idles at about 1 grand or lower after it warms up. If I run it to 2K it will be moving unless the brakes are locked. I know stratus give a 1000 hour TBO on their engines so I would expect NSI would be the same. Do you have the NSI maintenance manual for yours? If you don't it would sure be good to find one you can copy to get the recommended maintenance intervals on the parts. I can copy the Stratus one for you which would give you engine info but no good for your redrive or throttle body injector. When I was running my Rotax I checked the redrive oil before every flight and changed it about every 50 hours.

Do you have the wide gear on your Avid? If not I would highly recommend it. I know it saved me on my MK 4 from more than one bad landing situation that would have caused damage to my bird if I hadn't had it. Mk 4's are short and the wide gear gives you much better brake leverage to steer and a lot more stability. You can get the wide bungee gear from Airdale. You are probably a lot better pilot than I am and may be OK without it but I like to have every advantage I can on landing and wide gear and good brakes make a huge difference.

I have not checked my valve lash yet on this engine but it is comming up soon at 20 hours. I have about one more flight before I am there and may be able to get there tomorrow. I will have to check what the manual says it should be. Thanks for the advice on the starting procedure. I put in a split bus master switch but have been starting it with both the alternator and battery on. I will see if it has a little more starting power with the alternator off. Anything would help since mine is pretty difficult to start when cold.

Best to your dad, Randy
Randy Tyler
Palmer, Alaska
Avid+ / N316DT
Subaru EA-81, IVO Medium IFA 72"

#11 Jim

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Posted 18 January 2011 - 02:54 PM

Wow Jim, it sounds like you are going through a lot. Give your dad our best and we will keep him in our thoughts and prayers for a quick recovery. I hope he does not have any paralisis; his injury would be a difficult recovery for a young person but it gets much harder as we get older. You have a lot going on, I am amazed you can keep the project moving forward but hope you ar eable to keep it up.

Your idle rpm of 2 grand makes me think the redrive is definately geared differently. Mine idles at about 1 grand or lower after it warms up. If I run it to 2K it will be moving unless the brakes are locked. I know stratus give a 1000 hour TBO on their engines so I would expect NSI would be the same. Do you have the NSI maintenance manual for yours? If you don't it would sure be good to find one you can copy to get the recommended maintenance intervals on the parts. I can copy the Stratus one for you which would give you engine info but no good for your redrive or throttle body injector. When I was running my Rotax I checked the redrive oil before every flight and changed it about every 50 hours.

Do you have the wide gear on your Avid? If not I would highly recommend it. I know it saved me on my MK 4 from more than one bad landing situation that would have caused damage to my bird if I hadn't had it. Mk 4's are short and the wide gear gives you much better brake leverage to steer and a lot more stability. You can get the wide bungee gear from Airdale. You are probably a lot better pilot than I am and may be OK without it but I like to have every advantage I can on landing and wide gear and good brakes make a huge difference.

I have not checked my valve lash yet on this engine but it is comming up soon at 20 hours. I have about one more flight before I am there and may be able to get there tomorrow. I will have to check what the manual says it should be. Thanks for the advice on the starting procedure. I put in a split bus master switch but have been starting it with both the alternator and battery on. I will see if it has a little more starting power with the alternator off. Anything would help since mine is pretty difficult to start when cold.

Best to your dad, Randy


Randy, it means a lot to have a buddy who gives the kind of consideration you have. THANKS. Dad is not lucid at this time (they're keeping him under for obvious reasons), but his vitals are good and they just placed a filter to trap any clots from getting to his heart yesterday. He's always been a hard working man with a great constitution and maybe we can get him back to the status relative to when he had his stroke (came through that pretty well). Your prayers and concerns mean a lot as dad (and I) are two people you've never met.
Yeah, this whole affair has been a bit of a jugelling act, better men than I have had worse problems - we'll get through.
I too would like wider gear, at some point I would like to see if I might be able to fabricate or modify what I have presently. I've certainly given it some thought.
Randy, if you can lay hands on the NSI maitenance particulars I would really appreciate it. I hadn't checked out AIRDALE, but I will. I too believe our engines must be quite similar. One thing else, I don't know my prop diameter. Maybe you are swinging a somewhat larger diameter. That could also explain some things.
As soon as dad comes around (it's a process) I'll tell him he has a buddy by the name of Randy Tyler up in Alaska. Be well buddy, I enjoy corresponding with you ... Jim. :)
EA81Jim




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