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where to start on my Model C

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Posted

Ok so iv'e been getting ready to start work on my Model C kit for a while and am ready to actually make some progress. This is my first build, i have several years experience as a welder/fabricator and auto mechanic so i feel pretty prepared and have a pretty good selection of tools to work with. I don't thing that the build manual is very good and have heard that the kitfox III is exactly the same? is this the case if so i could possibly just get a build manual for that if its any better. iv'e decided not to extend the airframe due to the lack of a mig welder, i do have a very good stick welder for small things but i don't wish to take on that much with it. im planing on adding handles on the bottom rear for better manuvering in the hanger. and possibly a dorsal fin like the model IV. (what size/type of material should i use for this.) also would like to add mounts for floats should i ever get the opportunity some day i would like it to be ready for them, could anyone give me some info on where exactly these need to be mounted and the specs of them so that i can fab some up. is there any other upgrades that i should look at doing from the beginning, i figure now is the best time to do it. at this point im planing on using the rotax 532 that i got with the kit. it came with the nose tank that sits behind the dash can anyone tell me how much fuel it is suposed to hold and if it is resistant to ethonol? im also planing on adding a wing tank or two. i have the speed wings (would have rathered the HH but go with what you got I guess) Has anyone made an access for cargo from the side? im sure i will have many more questions as i go. i will be taking lots of pics so I will try and keep some posted on the progress.

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

Robert

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Posted

Ok so iv'e been getting ready to start work on my Model C kit for a while and am ready to actually make some progress. This is my first build, i have several years experience as a welder/fabricator and auto mechanic so i feel pretty prepared and have a pretty good selection of tools to work with. I don't thing that the build manual is very good and have heard that the kitfox III is exactly the same? is this the case if so i could possibly just get a build manual for that if its any better. iv'e decided not to extend the airframe due to the lack of a mig welder, i do have a very good stick welder for small things but i don't wish to take on that much with it. im planing on adding handles on the bottom rear for better manuvering in the hanger. and possibly a dorsal fin like the model IV. (what size/type of material should i use for this.) also would like to add mounts for floats should i ever get the opportunity some day i would like it to be ready for them, could anyone give me some info on where exactly these need to be mounted and the specs of them so that i can fab some up. is there any other upgrades that i should look at doing from the beginning, i figure now is the best time to do it. at this point im planing on using the rotax 532 that i got with the kit. it came with the nose tank that sits behind the dash can anyone tell me how much fuel it is suposed to hold and if it is resistant to ethonol? im also planing on adding a wing tank or two. i have the speed wings (would have rathered the HH but go with what you got I guess) Has anyone made an access for cargo from the side? im sure i will have many more questions as i go. i will be taking lots of pics so I will try and keep some posted on the progress.

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

Robert

Anyway you can hook a TIG rig up to that welder? If so your golden. Deffinately want the handles! The floats can mount to the front gear attach point and the rear attach point at the strut. This is where everyone I know has the floats mounted. The factory mounted the floats at that location so that is what I went with with no issues.

I think the nose tank is 9 gallons, and it is is a poly tank, should be good to go with ethanol. Make sure you use fuel lines rated for moonshine!

On the wings, I would get the extension kit from airdale! A buddy had the extended speed wing on his MK IV and I could take that plane in and out of every place I take my HH.

My cargo goes from the back of the seat to the front of the vertical fin. I would love to have a side door, but unless you redesign some of the tubing on the side, you really dont get much of an opening.

Look at the thread on my avid rebuild, and you will see that I plated the sides of the airframe from the wing strut attach point to the firewall. I used .020 4130 plate. May have added a pound, but ALOT more strength in the event of hard landings etc. My tubing was all bent up in that area and I had to do alot of straightening. I dont mind adding one or two pounds for strength in the gear box area!

:BC:

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Posted

Thanks for the great info. I think i got a good lead on a nice mig welder that i can use, if so i may do a frame extension after all. would be nice as i plan to teach my wife to fly with this plane and anything that i can do to make it easier for her would be great, if this is the case at what point do i cut it in half to extend it and what type/size of tubing do i need and where/how should i add supports? anywhere i can find some good pics of this being done. also i have read that a dorsal fin is an easy modification that really helps with the aerodynamics, if this is the case i would like to do it where exactly do i attach it, it seems to me that it would interfear with the turdledeck, do i need to modify this as well. just want to get everything figured out before i start building, espically the welding. nice to know that the gas tank is good to go with ethonol, i never used it in my skyraider but there are fewer and fewer gas stations around here that offer ethonol free gas so i would just rather be prepared so that if i have to use it i can.

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Posted

Robert - Where are you located? Brett at Airdale has the jigs to do the 15" extension that you are talking about. Much easier than trying to jig it yourself.

(Fill in your profile)

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Posted

Im about an hour drive north of Boise, Idaho (Idaho City, U98) not sure where Brett is located at but I have a lot of background in building jigs and fabrication so this is no problem just need to know where I cut the frame in half at, is it behind the linkages for the flapeorns or more towards the rear, seems the further forward it is the larger area you would have for cargo. or does it really need to be more towards the rear? still need to know what material i need for this? I was looking at where many people mount the throttle just below the dash, do i need to weld on a small tab to mount this or is there some other way people are doing it. I don't like the brake/rudder pedals and want to convert to hydraulic brakes anyway so i think i will fab up some new pedals for this and add brakes to the right seat as well. is there any good drawings/ pics of this being done that anyone could point me to. I was thinking of going to the local motorcycle salvage yard and looking for some brakes off of a 4 wheeler is there anything specific that i should be looking for, or looking to avoid? If i put on the 4 wheeler disc brakes can i use my current wheels or will they need changed as well? and lastly (at least for now) i was thinking of replacing the wood floor boards with aluminum, i have some good street signs which I have used for other projects and seems to be pretty strong as well as moisture resistant, seems this would be good for when mud/snow gets inside there seeing as i will hardly ever land on asphault its just gonna happen. is there any reason why i shouldn't use this?

thanks so much for the input

Robert

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Posted

Brett is 30 minutes north of me, in northern Wisconsin. So, no help there...

Seriously, though, call him he will surely help you with any tech questions on doing the stretch. Especially if you have some fab and welding experience.

  • The fuselage is all made of 4130 tubing. Any steel supplier should be able to source this for you.
  • Pony up for the Matco or Grove aircraft wheels and brakes. You will never regret it. The Kitfox style AVT wheels with the cobbed brakes suck.
  • Don't get caught with the stop signs... :ididntdoit:

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Posted

Ok next thought is I see alot of the newer models have ribs in the vertical and horizontal staibalizers. How much bennifit is this modification, it seems like a fairly easy upgrade seeing as im starting with a new kit. is it worth the weight and time to do? Iv'e found some nice pics on other boards of the dorsal fin and relocated throttle bracket so ive got a pretty good idea of what im going to do there. I also see that on the newer models the stringers are replaced w metal rather than the wood ones that I have, should I use my wood ones or replace with metal. if the metal is the way to go can anyone give me any details on this, is it still just the 4130 steel tubing or something else.

Thanks Robert

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Posted

Keep it light!!

Extra ribs and junk is just more performance robbing weight. 4130 tubing in also known as "Chromolly" (spelling?) tubing.

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Posted

The added thickness in the tailfeathers due to added ribs may offer a very slight cruise drag reduction, but that's all.  That reduction is likely negligible compared to properly streamlining the tail struts and wing cabane struts, not to mention engine cooling drag as having the biggest payoff potential.  All at the cost of added weight & comlexity.  Personally, I'd blow it off as not worth the bother.

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Posted

:lmao:  only 7 yrs late to the party mr.  That bird has been built and sold.

:BC:

 

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Posted

Guess I should pay a bit more attention to dates!  Oh Boy!

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