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lift strut fairings

10 posts in this topic

Posted

Many have said the lift strut fairings are worth 8-10 MPH on a Avid/Kitfox.

I ordered the plastic snap on style for my 1 inch diameter Kitfox liftstruts from John Mcbean

I am looking for alternate methods to esthetically blend the 2 fairings where they blend together at the fuselage end instead of using the aluminum cuff material they supply.

Maybe the aluminum cuff will look acceptable after all?

Does Bondo or structual adhesive stick to this plastic?

What glue do I use to glue the fairings to the lift strut?

Do you also glue the snap together joint?

Should I have considered other lift strut fairing material?

Thanks Herman

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Posted

Many have said the lift strut fairings are worth 8-10 MPH on a Avid/Kitfox.

I ordered the plastic snap on style for my 1 inch diameter Kitfox liftstruts from John Mcbean

I am looking for alternate methods to esthetically blend the 2 fairings where they blend together at the fuselage end instead of using the aluminum cuff material they supply.

Maybe the aluminum cuff will look acceptable after all?

Does Bondo or structual adhesive stick to this plastic?

What glue do I use to glue the fairings to the lift strut?

Do you also glue the snap together joint?

Should I have considered other lift strut fairing material?

Thanks Herman

I did not like the aluminum that they used for it either. I cut mine to fit, then snapped them in place and used a lil Gorrilla tape at the root ends to tape them up. Iwas just going to do a few quick flights then finnish them off right to see if the added weight was worth it. The speed was not that noticable, but I did pick up around 5-6 MPH. The biggest thing was an increase in almost 250 FPM climb!!

That was a couple years ago, and I have just never gotten around to finnishing them off. they are just snapped in place with nothing gluing them to the lift strut with Gorrilla tape at the ends to hold the two together. Maybe one day soon I will finish them off right :lol:

:BC:

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Posted

Leni

Thanks for the advice using Gorilla tape and no glue.

Makes it easy to remove and look for corrosion.

My original Model 1 lift struts had wooden fairings covered with fabric that the corrosion started to bubble thru under the fabric after 12 years.

I assume the snap pressure to the strut keeps the fairings from rotating on the struts.

How did you finish off the fairing where you have to trim so it does not contact the fuselage when or if you fold the wings? Gorilla tape??

Herman

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Posted

There has to be a lighter weight option than these 24 pound plastic Kitfox lift strut fairings.

Any ideas out there you are willing to share?

Thanks Herman

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Posted

I plan on using the wood ones from Airdale on my Kitfox rebuild (it currently has none).

A local friend and fellow Kitfoxer lightened his by drilling 2" diameter holes, evenly spaced down the length, prior to covering with fabric. Saving the wood chips from this operation, he weighed them and came up with nearly 6 pounds.

I may follow suite.

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Posted

I spoke with Merle Williams ( murlewilliamsaircraft.com ) since I posted today about lighter lift strut fairings.

He said that he was designing very light fairings (6 pounds total) out of .020 aluminum that should be on the market in a few months.

He already sells fairings that go between the lift strut fairings and the wing.

Herman

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Posted

I plan on using the wood ones from Airdale on my Kitfox rebuild (it currently has none).

A local friend and fellow Kitfoxer lightened his by drilling 2" diameter holes, evenly spaced down the length, prior to covering with fabric. Saving the wood chips from this operation, he weighed them and came up with nearly 6 pounds.

I may follow suite.

If using the wood ones, make sure they are really bonded well to the tubing! Mine were not and they held alot of moisture on the tubing and turned them to rusted lengths of garbage. The reason I have the plastic farings on mine, even though they are ALOT heavier is because they will drain and not let my struts get rusty, and I can pop them off periodically to check for corrosion. I fly off salt water quite abit, and even though I rinse it well in fresh water, I dont like the idea of the lift strut getting rusty and me not knowing it!

:BC:

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Posted

Leni

Thanks for the advice using Gorilla tape and no glue.

Makes it easy to remove and look for corrosion.

My original Model 1 lift struts had wooden fairings covered with fabric that the corrosion started to bubble thru under the fabric after 12 years.

I assume the snap pressure to the strut keeps the fairings from rotating on the struts.

How did you finish off the fairing where you have to trim so it does not contact the fuselage when or if you fold the wings? Gorilla tape??

Herman

I put mine on with a bead of liquid nails and made my own wing attatchment farings and used the aluminimum that came with for the fuselage attatch fairing. Haven't gotten around to painting yet, and I am not sure what they did for air speed. I put on VG's at the same time, so I'm not sure what the individual impact of the faring was.

Dave

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Posted

I appreciate all the good avice.

I also had corrosion with my original Model 1 lift struts that had glued on wooden fairings and covered with fabric.

If you can save 6 pounds by drilling holes in the wooden fairings and covering the holes fabric,

how about swiss cheesing the fairing behind the lift strut (of the snap together plastic fairings) and use a length wise strip of Gorrilla tape to cover the holes.

This idea would still allow easy removal for corrosion inspection but the airfoil may be altered adversely.

Any opinions or predictions if the weight loss is worth swiss cheesing the lift struts?

Herman

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Posted

I would not be drilling the plastic.. Most inspectors get a lil antsy when they see duct tape :lol: If you hold the builders certificate for that plane, and are doing your own condition inspections, then go for it.. Just my .02

:BC:

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